Holika Holika

Holika Holika Prime Youth 24K Gold Repair Emulsion

Name: Holika Holika - Prime Youth 24K Gold Repair Emulsion
Brand: Holika Holika

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

32 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A nourishing emulsion helps smooth the skin texture and enhances skin radiance.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, fructooligosaccharides.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-9, niacinamide, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Hexapeptide-9Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.25%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.2%

Nonapeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.15%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

FructooligosaccharidesKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.9–1.1%

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.15–0.25%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.6%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.25–0.5%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.15–0.25%

Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%

Ulmus davidiana root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.15–0.25%

Royal jelly extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.15–0.3%

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)Key active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.25%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.6–1.9%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.3%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%

Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.45–0.65%

Cetyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture~4–4.9%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.9%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–0.75%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%

Anti-aging

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Providing wrinkle improvement and whitening effects with the help of Adenosine and Niacinamide.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, centella asiatica extract, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-9, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.8–2.2%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.25%

Hexapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.25%

Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~0.15–0.25%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.6%

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.15%

Nonapeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–0.9%

Evens skin tone

1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Providing wrinkle improvement and whitening effects with the help of Adenosine and Niacinamide.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.6%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.25%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (centella asiatica extract, ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.15–0.3%

Ulmus davidiana root extractEffect: LowA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin~0.15–0.25%

Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.15–0.25%

Eclipta prostrata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.25%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

6 strong irritants: Parfum, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Eclipta prostrata leaf extractA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Ulmus davidiana root extractA plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skinHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Cetyl ethylhexanoateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product textureMedium~4–4.9%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.2–2.7%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.1–1.4%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.

Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

GoldA colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.6–0.9%est.

Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.6–1.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.5–5.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Cetyl ethylhexanoate~4–4.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and creates a thicker product texture

More about Cetyl ethylhexanoate

1,2-hexanediol~2.2–2.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin)

Niacinamide~1.8–2.2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Cetearyl alcohol~1.6–1.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Polysorbate 60~1.1–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Dimethicone~0.9–1.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.6–0.9%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Hydroxypropyl

Not recognized

Palmitic acid~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Stearic acid~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Centella asiatica extract~0.4–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Betaine~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Parfum~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Portulaca oleracea extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract

Dipropylene glycol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Eclipta prostrata leaf extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Eclipta prostrata leaf extract

Laminaria japonica extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract

Sorbitan stearate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Fructooligosaccharides~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructooligosaccharides

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Amaranthus caudatus seed extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Amaranthus caudatus seed extract

Beta-glucan~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Gold~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skin

More about Gold

Lecithin~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Ulmus davidiana root extract~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant root extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might have an anti-inflammatory effect and could help neturalize free radicals in skin

More about Ulmus davidiana root extract

Ficus carica fruit extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract

Sorbitan

Not recognized

Alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Myristic acid~0.2–0.4%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Ceramide np~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Royal jelly extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products

More about Royal jelly extract

Ci 19140~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140

Caviar extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Caviar extract

Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract

Tocopherol~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Ci 17200~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Copper tripeptide-1~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9~0.1–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.1–0.15%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.15–0.25%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1

Limonene~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, 1,2-hexanediol, Hydrogenated poly(c6-14 olefin), Niacinamide, Cetearyl alcohol, Butylene glycol, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Xanthan gum, Unknown, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Centella asiatica extract, Betaine, Parfum, Portulaca oleracea extract, Dipropylene glycol, Disodium edta, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Laminaria japonica extract, Sorbitan stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Hydrogenated lecithin, Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, Beta-glucan, Gold, Lecithin, Ulmus davidiana root extract, Ficus carica fruit extract, Unknown, Alcohol, Myristic acid, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Ceramide np, Royal jelly extract, Ci 19140, Caviar extract, Coix lacryma-jobi ma-yuen seed extract, Tocopherol, Ci 17200, Caprylyl glycol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Copper tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Holika HolikaPrime Youth 24K Gold Repair EmulsionYOUR PRODUCT	MeebakCica cream	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream	The SaemRepair Rx Emulsion
Match	—	91%	88%	87%
Price	$34.65	$18.73−$15.92	$39.59+$4.94	$27.99−$6.66
Shared key ingredients	—	21 of 22	14 of 22	15 of 22
Key difference	—	Retinol	Anhydroxylitol	Sh-Decapeptide-7
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Holika Holika - Prime Youth 24K Gold Repair Emulsion" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, hexapeptide-9, betaine, fructooligosaccharides and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1 and dimethicone) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.80% - 2.20%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.20% - 0.35%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.15% - 0.25%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.10% - 0.15%, nonapeptide-1 0.10% - 0.20%, hexapeptide-9 0.10% - 0.25%, copper tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.25% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.15% - 0.25%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Adenosine 0.15% - 0.25%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, lecithin, stearic acid and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 28.67$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 42 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
6
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
7
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
8
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
10
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
12
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
14
Portulaca oleracea (purslane)mdedge.com
15
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
18
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
19
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
22
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
23
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
24
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Chemical constituents of the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica and their potential biological activitiespubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Cosmeceutical properties of polysaccharides from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonicapubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Anti-Wrinkle Effect of Ulmus davidiana Extractsdbpia.co.kr
30
Development and characterization of a superabsorbing hydrogel film containing Ulmus davidiana var. Japonica root bark and pullulan for skin wound healingsciencedirect.com
31
The fatty acid profile of the skin surface lipid layer in papulopustular rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
34
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Analysis of Dyes in Cosmetics: Challenges and Recent Developmentsmdpi.com
37
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
39
Regenerative and Protective Actions of the GHK-Cu Peptide in the Light of the New Gene Datancbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Resultsmdpi.com
41
Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural studyinfona.pl
42
Selected Biomarkers Revealed Potential Skin Toxicity Caused by Certain Copper Compoundsnature.com

Holika HolikaPrime Youth 24K Gold Repair Emulsion

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