PRODUCT REVIEW
Higher Education Skincare Cram Session Blue Light Blocking Moisturiser
Can it cause trouble?
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Institut Esthederm - Intensive Propolis Adult Acne and Wrinkles Face Cream
Price: $50.84
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What can the product work for?
Works for
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Cram Session Blue Light Blocking Moisturiser
glycerin
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
carthamus tinctorius seed oil
2% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
simmondsia chinensis seed oil
1.5% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
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Anti-aging
adenosine
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
75/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
salicylic acid
0.1% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-inflammatory,
Exfoliation,
Antibacterial,
Evens skin tone
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
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Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
1.1% -
1.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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HIGH
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HIGH
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
salicylic acid
0.1% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-inflammatory,
Exfoliation,
Antibacterial,
Evens skin tone
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
tocopherol
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
retinyl palmitate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
salicylic acid
0.1% -
0.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-inflammatory,
Exfoliation,
Antibacterial,
Evens skin tone
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
1.1% -
1.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
All ingredients
pentylene glycol
6.4% -
7.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
isononyl isononanoate
4.2% -
5.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
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Ingredient list view
Water, Pentylene glycol, Isononyl isononanoate, C14-22 alcohols, Cyclopentasiloxane, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Cyclohexasiloxane, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Steareth-20, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl acetate, Disodium edta, Hexylene glycol, Tocopherol, Sodium hydroxide, Melanin, Sodium hyaluronate, Glucose, Phospholipids, Retinyl palmitate, Adenosine, Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Pichia/resveratrol ferment extract, Salicylic acid, Sorbic acid, Myristoyl pentapeptide-11
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Contact dermatitis caused by alkyl glucosides in the modern cosmetic industry and contact dermatitis in the Canadian aircraft industry
- Safety Assessment of Decyl Glucoside and Other Alkyl Glucosides as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Function
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations