Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Happy Face - 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Happy Face - 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (glycerin and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (dimethicone, squalane and pentylene glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.05% - 0.25%, asiatic acid 0.05% - 0.30%, asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.30% and madecassoside 0.15% - 0.60% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
- Azelaic Acid (2.90% - 4.30%). This active can reduce hyperpigmentation. It also works helps against acne and clogged pores. Please note that Azelaic Acid is most effective against acne in concentrations between 10% and 20%.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, azelaic acid, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: azelaic acid
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This will be a game-changer. Immediately soothing, smoothing and calming skin, this hydrating formula , with 10% Azelaic Acid, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica, Rose Fruit pore-minimizers and Sakura Complex , is clinically proven to significantly reduce the appearance of redness in 7 days.
Source: Beauty Pie
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, butylene glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
This product contains asiaticoside, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Skin-Clearing Gel-Cream | Current | $-1.00 | |
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Floslek ANTI ACNE 24H System Imperfection correcting cream | 70% | $-1.00 | |
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Azelaic acid, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Dipropylene glycol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Pentylene glycol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Disodium edta, Rosa multiflora fruit extract, Madecassoside, Porphyra yezoensis extract, Yeast extract, Oryza sativa lees extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Prunus lannesiana flower extract
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytes
- Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stress
- Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammation
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulations
- The natural yeast extract isolated by ethanol precipitation inhibits melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase activity and downregulating melanosome transfer
- Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview