Grown Alchemist Skincare Detox Night Cream

Grown Alchemist Skincare Detox Night Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Anti-aging
Oligopeptide-1
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“This advanced detoxifying night cream restores the skin and helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, resulting in refreshed and youthful-looking skin. To use Apply after cleansing. Suitable for all skin types.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product contains oligopeptide-1. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Oligopeptide-1, Glycerin + 8 more
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, aloe barbadensis leaf extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, cetyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: oligopeptide-1

Oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.6–4%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.45%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~0.15–0.55%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.1–1.7%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.7–2.6%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~6.5–9.8%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~3.7–5.5%
Sclerocarya birrea seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Rosa centifolia flower extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~6.5–9.8%est.
Echinacea purpurea extractPlant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.75%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~3.7–5.5%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
Sclerocarya birrea seed oilAn emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Rosa damascena flower water~6.5–9.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~3.7–5.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Glycerin~2.6–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~2–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.7–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Sorbitan olivate~1.4–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Cetearyl olivate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Cetyl alcohol~1.1–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Khaya senegalensis bark extract~0.85–1.25%
Formula
Maltodextrin~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Oligopeptide-1~0.45–1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Oligopeptide-1
Dipeptide-3~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dipeptide-3
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Echinacea purpurea extract~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Echinacea purpurea extract
Sodium phytate~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Sclerocarya birrea seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.

More about Sclerocarya birrea seed oil
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~0.15–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Dehydroacetic acid~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Rosa centifolia flower extract~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower extract
Eugenol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Citronellol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Linalool~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Rosa damascena flower water, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Glycerin, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Sorbitan olivate, Cetearyl olivate, Cetyl alcohol, Khaya senegalensis bark extract, Maltodextrin, Oligopeptide-1, Dipeptide-3, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Echinacea purpurea extract, Sodium phytate, Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Eugenol, Citronellol, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Grown AlchemistSkincare Detox Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTSCINICSnail Matrix CreamFaceGymSupreme Restructure CreamSerendi BeautyLa-bloom Vital Repair Cream
Match—61%59%58%
Price$56.57$13.60−$42.97$120.00+$63.43$74.42+$17.85
Shared key ingredients—3 of 53 of 53 of 5
Key difference—AdenosineNiacinamideOligopeptide-32
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Grown Alchemist - Skincare Detox Night Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Grown Alchemist - Skincare Detox Night Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, aloe barbadensis leaf extract and rosa damascena flower water in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed oil, cetyl alcohol, aloe barbadensis leaf extract and dicaprylyl carbonate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (oligopeptide-1 0.45% - 1.00%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 76.70£ up to 2023.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

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Grown Alchemist Skincare Detox Night Cream
Grown AlchemistSkincare Detox Night Cream

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.