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Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Cream Intensive Plumping Moisturizer
Paula's choice

Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Cream Intensive Plumping Moisturizer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Visibly firms and smooths over time, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles”
Source: Paula's Choice US

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: oligopeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.7%
Oligopeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
24 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“A rich, non-greasy cream that visibly plumps, firms, and replenishes dry skin.”
Source: Paula's Choice US

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: oligopeptide-1

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Myristyl myristateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~1.6–1.9%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~3–3.7%
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~0.55–0.85%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.1–2.5%
Oligopeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.4–0.6%
CyanocobalaminKey activeEffect: HighCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.1–0.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.55–0.85%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.5–3%
Oleyl erucateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.8–1.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.8–2.2%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.7%
Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.85%
Pyrus malus fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~1.2–1.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractEffect: LowPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.35–0.65%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.45–0.65%
Tridecyl trimellitate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~4.2–5.1%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 flagged ingredients
Medium risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.1–2.5%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Tridecyl trimellitateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.65–1%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Ophiopogon japonicus root extractPlant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.1–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~1.6–1.9%est.
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.4–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~5.2–6.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Behenyl alcohol~4.2–5.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Betaine~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Dimethicone~2.5–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.1–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~1.8–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Myristyl myristate~1.6–1.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Pyrus malus fruit extract~1.2–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Beheneth-20~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Beheneth-20
Oleyl erucate~0.8–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Oleyl erucate
Tridecyl trimellitate~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl trimellitate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Diisostearyl malate~0.6–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate
1,2-hexanediol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Squalane~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Adenosine~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Butylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ophiopogon japonicus root extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier function, but research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Ophiopogon japonicus root extract
Pentylene glycol~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Chondrus crispus extract~0.4–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Sorbitan isostearate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Gigartina stellata extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Gigartina stellata extract
Gluconolactone~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Acetyl sh-hexapeptide-5 amide acetate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Acetyl sh-hexapeptide-5 amide acetate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Tridecapeptide-1~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tridecapeptide-1
Oligopeptide-1~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Oligopeptide-1
Sodium phytate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Cyanocobalamin~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Cyanocobalamin
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Behenyl alcohol, Betaine, Dimethicone, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Myristyl myristate, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Beheneth-20, Oleyl erucate, Tridecyl trimellitate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Diisostearyl malate, 1,2-hexanediol, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Squalane, Adenosine, Butylene glycol, Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, Pentylene glycol, Chondrus crispus extract, Sorbitan isostearate, Citric acid, Gigartina stellata extract, Gluconolactone, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Acetyl sh-hexapeptide-5 amide acetate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium phytate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cyanocobalamin, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 29 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Safety assessment of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Cream Intensive Plumping Moisturizer
Paula's choicePro-Collagen Peptide Cream Intensive Plumping Moisturizer
Buy at Paula's Choice US$49.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Paula's Choice US$49.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.