Grown Alchemist Skin Renewal Day Cream

Skin Renewal Day Cream

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Judging from the ingredient list, "Grown Alchemist - Skin Renewal Day Cream" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients.

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Grown Alchemist - Skin Renewal Day Cream" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Fructose and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Glycine soja oil, jojoba esters, helianthus annuus seed oil, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and jojoba oil

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Grown Alchemist" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging
NIACINAMIDE at ~1.2–1.5% + 2 more curated actives
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
10 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: fructose, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, glycine soja oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%
FRUCTOSERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
GANODERMA LUCIDUM EXTRACTRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.75–1.1%
GLYCINE SOJA OILRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.5–3%
JOJOBA ESTERSRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.55–0.8%
SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OILRole: Under-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.35–0.6%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
NIACINAMIDE at ~1.2–1.5% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~4.9–5.9%
Glyceryl stearate seRole: Key activeUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~3.8–4.6%
Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.6–3.1%
Helianthus annuus seed oilRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.5–3%
Heptyl undecylenateRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~2.1–2.6%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.75–1.1%
Jojoba estersRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.55–0.8%
FructoseRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Ganoderma lucidum extractRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moringa oleifera seed extractRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.45%
Glycine soja oilRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%
Anti-blemish
NIACINAMIDE at ~1.2–1.5% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.2–1.5%
CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.25–0.45%
Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~4.9–5.9%
Glyceryl stearate seRole: Key activeUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~3.8–4.6%
Cetearyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.6–3.1%
Helianthus annuus seed oilRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.5–3%
Heptyl undecylenateRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~2.1–2.6%
GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.75–1.1%
Jojoba estersRole: Key activeAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.55–0.8%
FructoseRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Ganoderma lucidum extractRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moringa oleifera seed extractRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.45%
Glycine soja oilRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%
Irritancy
24 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Echinacea purpurea extractPlant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Withania somnifera root extractHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Ci 75120An orange dyeHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishLow~2.1–2.6%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinLow~1–1.2%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.6–0.9%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionLow~0.55–0.8%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Low~0.5–0.7%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.35–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationLow~0.35–0.6%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Low~0.35–0.6%est.
Ganoderma lucidum extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Moringa oleifera seed extractHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effectLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Low~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsLow~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
Glyceryl stearate se ~3.8–4.6% — rinse-off or low %
Low risk
We flag 3 ingredients with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollientMed~3.8–4.6%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~2.6–3.1%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Med~0.25–0.45%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Cetyl alcohol~4.9–5.9%
Key active
Glyceryl stearate se~3.8–4.6%
Key activeComedo · medium
Cetearyl alcohol~2.6–3.1%
Key activeComedo · medium
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.5–3%
Key active
Heptyl undecylenate~2.1–2.6%
Key activeLow-irritation
Propanediol~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Dicaprylyl ether~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Niacinamide~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1–1.2%
Low-irritation
Glycerin~0.75–1.1%
Key active
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.6–0.9%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl caprylate~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Jojoba esters~0.55–0.8%
Key activeLow-irritation
Fructose~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.5–0.7%
Low-irritation
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Xanthan gum~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Potassium sorbate~0.35–0.6%
Low-irritation
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.35–0.6%
Low-irritation
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Echinacea purpurea extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Withania somnifera root extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Ganoderma lucidum extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeLow-irritation
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Myristyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Potassium phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Maltodextrin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Moringa oleifera seed extract~0.25–0.45%
Key activeLow-irritation
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedo · mediumLow-irritation
Sodium riboflavin phosphate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Potassium hydroxide~0.2–0.4%
Low-irritation
Ci 75120~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high

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