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GlyMed Plus Cell Science Restorative Skin Clarifying Masque
GlyMed Plus

GlyMed Plus Cell Science Restorative Skin Clarifying Masque

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

0 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Exfoliation
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Infused with Bentonite Clay and Papaya Enzymes, the radiance-renewing treatment effectively lifts away dead, damaged skin caused by daily lifestyle and environmental aggressors to unveil a brighter, smoother complexion.”
Source: Skinstore

This product might help exfoliate the skin with papain, but This ingredient is not the most effective.

PapainEffect: LowAn enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating~0.35–0.65%
Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
Sea saltEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration~0.2–0.4%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-blemish
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Suitable for all skin types, especially oily, the rejuvenating face mask blends Calendula and Lemongrass Extracts to eliminate excess oil and breakout-causing bacteria.”
Source: Skinstore

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

BentoniteEffect: LowHelps stabilize the product formulation~0.75–1.15%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (thioctic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Thioctic acidKey activeEffect: High~0.35–0.6%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.5–0.75%
Ascophyllum nodosum extractEffect: LowBrown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.5%
Rubus idaeus extractEffect: LowMostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~1.5–1.8%
Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~6–7.4%
Olea europaea leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missing~2.3–2.8%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains thioctic acid. This ingredient help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they might be able to prevent early signs of aging (like fine lines and wrinkles), at least to some extent. These ingredients will not be able to "reverse" signs of aging.

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%
Thioctic acidEffect: Low~0.35–0.6%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glycine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, borago officinalis seed oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.6–0.95%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.5%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.4%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%
Ascophyllum nodosum extractKey activeEffect: HighBrown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect~0.25–0.5%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.5–0.75%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.55–0.85%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–0.75%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.1–1.3%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.3%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.65%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.4%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Calendula officinalis flower extract, Cymbopogon schoenanthus extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~6–7.4%est.
Cymbopogon schoenanthus extract—High~4.3–5.2%est.
Lavandula angustifolia extractUsed for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skinHigh~1.7–2.1%est.
Rubus idaeus extractMostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~1.5–1.8%est.
PapainAn enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Olea europaea leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missingMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Triticum vulgare seed extract—2/5~1.2–1.5%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.75%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.55–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Calendula officinalis flower extract~6–7.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Cymbopogon schoenanthus extract~4.3–5.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cymbopogon schoenanthus extract
Hordeum distichon extract~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hordeum distichon extract
Olea europaea leaf extract~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties but evidence for effectiveness in skin is missing

More about Olea europaea leaf extract
Taraxacum officinale root~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Taraxacum officinale root
Lavandula angustifolia extract~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skin

More about Lavandula angustifolia extract
Rubus idaeus extract~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Rubus idaeus extract
Triticum vulgare seed extract~1.2–1.5%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
More about Triticum vulgare seed extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Bentonite~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemish

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Bentonite
Glycerin~0.6–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Glyceryl stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Ceteareth-20~0.55–0.8%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Papain~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Exfoliation

An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating

More about Papain
Thioctic acid~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging
More about Thioctic acid
Hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Ascophyllum nodosum extract~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Brown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect

More about Ascophyllum nodosum extract
Bromelain~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bromelain
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Calcium ascorbate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calcium ascorbate
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Selenium
Not recognized
Allantoin~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Glycine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Squalane~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Sea salt~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Sorbitol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Cymbopogon schoenanthus extract, Hordeum distichon extract, Olea europaea leaf extract, Taraxacum officinale root, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Rubus idaeus extract, Triticum vulgare seed extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Bentonite, Glycerin, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Borago officinalis seed oil, Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Papain, Thioctic acid, Hyaluronic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ascophyllum nodosum extract, Bromelain, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Calcium ascorbate, Lecithin, Unknown, Allantoin, Glycine, Squalane, Sea salt, Sorbitol, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Topical application of Calendula officinalis (L.): Formulation and evaluation of hydrophilic cream with antioxidant activitypdfs.semanticscholar.org
  2. 2
    The seamy side of natural medicines: contact sensitization to arnica (Arnica montana L.) and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Final report on the safety assessment of Calendula officinalis extract and Calendula officinalisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longaonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Wound Repair Potential of Olea europaea L. Leaf Extracts Revealed by In Vivo Experimental Models and Comparative Evaluation of the Extracts' Antioxidant Activityresearchgate.net
  6. 6
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
GlyMed Plus Cell Science Restorative Skin Clarifying Masque
GlyMed PlusCell Science Restorative Skin Clarifying Masque
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.