Fresh Crème Ancienne Eye Cream

Fresh Crème Ancienne Eye Cream

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
9 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Comprised of a unique blend of moisturizing oils like meadowfoam seed oil for hydration and antioxidant-rich seabuckthorn berry oil for protection and its restoring properties.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: beeswax, cera alba.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.3–7.9%
Hippophae rhamnoides oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.~0.55–1.3%
Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~23–34%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~4.1–6.1%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~3.6–5.4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.1%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2.4–3.5%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~0.15–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Benefits Moisturizes and reduces fine lines around the eyes, diminishing the look of puffiness and under-eye circles.”
Source: Bluemercury

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~23–34%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus limon peel oil + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hippophae rhamnoides oilA good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.High~0.55–1.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.3–7.9%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~3.6–5.4%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2.4–3.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Limnanthes alba seed oil~23–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.3–7.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Water~4.7–7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Beeswax~4.1–6.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Cera alba~3.6–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Pentylene glycol~2.4–3.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Corn starch modified~1.9–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product formulation

More about Corn starch modified
Butylene glycol~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Sodium carbonate~1.1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate product's pH

More about Sodium carbonate
Annona squamosa seed extract~0.85–1.3%
Formula
Sucrose tetrastearate triacetate~0.8–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose tetrastearate triacetate
Hippophae rhamnoides oil~0.55–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emollient. Contains various ingredients including vitamins and fatty acids that could work in the skin to neutralize free radicals and minimize moisture loss - if enough of these compounds is able to penetrate the skin in an active form.

More about Hippophae rhamnoides oil
Limonene~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus limon peel oil~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Osmanthus fragrans flower extract~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Rosa damascena flower water~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citronellol~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Limnanthes alba seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Water, Beeswax, Cera alba, Pentylene glycol, Corn starch modified, Butylene glycol, Sodium carbonate, Annona squamosa seed extract, Sucrose tetrastearate triacetate, Hippophae rhamnoides oil, Limonene, Citrus limon peel oil, Phenoxyethanol, Osmanthus fragrans flower extract, Rosa damascena flower water, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

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Amazon USPrice as of 10/18/2026 15:29 GMT
$119.99
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Fresh Crème Ancienne Eye Cream
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