Filorga

Filorga NCEF-Intensive Supreme Regenerating Serum

Name: Filorga - NCEF-Intensive Supreme Regenerating Serum
Brand: Filorga

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging

Retinol, Ascorbyl glucoside + 15 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Formulated with a potent blend of retinol and vitamin C, this lightweight serum evens your skin tone and plump fine lines.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, aspartic acid, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, folic acid, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, retinyl acetate, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~2.3–2.8%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Retinyl acetateKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.35%

Folic acidKey activeEffect: MediumCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.15–0.25%

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Aminobutyric acidEffect: LowHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.25–0.45%

HydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.2–0.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.4%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.15–0.3%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

Retinol, Ascorbyl glucoside + 6 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Formulated with a potent blend of retinol and vitamin C, this lightweight serum evens your skin tone and plump fine lines.”

Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine, ascorbyl glucoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

TaurineEffect: LowCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness~0.25–0.45%

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.35%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.15–0.3%

Moisturizing

Side benefit · Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 + 38 more

Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aminobutyric acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetateHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~3.9–4.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.8–3.5%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Aminobutyric acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.25–0.45%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.45%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.2–0.4%

HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.2–0.35%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.35%

InositolKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.2–0.35%

IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Lysine hclKey activeEffect: High~0.2–0.35%

OrnithineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Soluble collagenKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

TyrosineKey activeEffect: High~0.2–0.35%

HydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: HighIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.35%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

CyanocobalaminKey activeEffect: HighCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens the skin~0.2–0.4%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.3%

Calcium pantothenateKey activeEffect: HighHelps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity~0.15–0.25%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.9–2.3%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.15%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Coenzyme aEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and dissolve other ingredients in a product~0.2–0.4%

BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.15–0.25%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.2–0.35%

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.15–0.3%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Ascorbyl glucoside, Glutathione + 7 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (glutathione, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ascorbyl glucoside also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oilEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin~0.2–0.4%

Pyridoxine hclEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.15–0.25%

Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

Side benefit · Retinol

Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

Anti-blemish

Side benefit · Retinol, Taurine + 2 more

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinUnder-dosedA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 strong irritants: Parfum, Alcohol + 3 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Benzophenone-4Sulisobenzone. A UV filter. Is typically used to improve the product stability under exposure to UV light. It is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. It can be used is larger concentrations as a sun protection ingredient for the skin, but can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Retinyl acetate—High~0.2–0.35%est.

NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~2.3–2.8%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Glyceryl linoleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~0.35–0.6%est.

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonateUsed to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Calcium chlorideHelps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonateHelps protect the ingredients in the formulation against UV lightMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Tributyl citrateHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

TaurineCould be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectivenessMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Pyridoxine hclMight help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.2–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Propanediol~4.3–5.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Phenyl trimethicone~3.9–4.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone

Glycerin~2.8–3.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Ascorbyl glucoside~2.3–2.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Sodium chloride~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6

Butylene glycol~0.75–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Carbomer~0.6–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium hydroxide~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Parfum~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Sucrose palmitate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sucrose palmitate

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Ethylhexyl salicylate~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Glucose~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Glyceryl linoleate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl linoleate

Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

An emollient that softens the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Dna~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dna

Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Potassium chloride~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium chloride

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to stabilize the product formulation

More about Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate

Citric acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Alcohol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Retinol~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MattifyingAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Sodium lactate~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Triticum vulgare germ protein~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Triticum vulgare germ protein

Calcium chloride~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating

More about Calcium chloride

Benzophenone-4~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Sun protection

Sulisobenzone. A UV filter. Is typically used to improve the product stability under exposure to UV light. It is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. It can be used is larger concentrations as a sun protection ingredient for the skin, but can be irritating

More about Benzophenone-4

Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium citrate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Soluble collagen~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Soluble collagen

Magnesium sulfate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate

Glutamine~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glutamine

T-butyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol

Buteth-3~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Buteth-3

Sodium phosphate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate

Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps protect the ingredients in the formulation against UV light

More about Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate

Potassium phosphate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate

Ascorbic acid~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Sodium acetate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium acetate

Lysine hcl~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Lysine hcl

Arginine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Alanine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Histidine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Histidine

Valine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Valine

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Leucine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Leucine

Threonine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Isoleucine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine

Tryptophan~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tryptophan

Phenylalanine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Tyrosine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Tyrosine

Glycine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Polysorbate 80~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80

Serine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Cystine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cystine

Cyanocobalamin~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Cyanocobalamin

Glutathione~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingEvens skin tone

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione

Asparagine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Asparagine

Aspartic acid~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate

Ornithine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ornithine

Glutamic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide

Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Proline~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Tributyl citrate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Tributyl citrate

Aminobutyric acid~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing

More about Aminobutyric acid

Methionine~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Methionine

Taurine~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Could be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, evening out the skin tone and neutralizing free radicals, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness

More about Taurine

Hydroxyproline~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Hydroxyproline

Glucosamine~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Glucosamine

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Coenzyme a~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and dissolve other ingredients in a product

More about Coenzyme a

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Thiamine diphosphate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Thiamine diphosphate

Glycine soja oil~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Ci 17200~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200

Retinyl acetate~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-aging

More about Retinyl acetate

Inositol~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Inositol

Niacin~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin

Niacinamide~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Pyridoxine hcl~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Pyridoxine hcl

Biotin~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin

Calcium pantothenate~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizing

Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity

More about Calcium pantothenate

Folic acid~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

Can help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin

More about Folic acid

Riboflavin~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Riboflavin

Tocopheryl phosphate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Tocopheryl phosphate

Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Phenyl trimethicone, Glycerin, Ascorbyl glucoside, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Sodium chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Butylene glycol, Carbomer, Sodium hydroxide, Parfum, Sucrose palmitate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Chlorphenesin, Lecithin, Pentylene glycol, Glucose, Disodium edta, Glyceryl linoleate, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dna, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Polysorbate 20, Potassium chloride, Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, Citric acid, Alcohol, Retinol, Sodium lactate, Triticum vulgare germ protein, Calcium chloride, Benzophenone-4, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium citrate, Soluble collagen, Magnesium sulfate, Glutamine, T-butyl alcohol, Buteth-3, Sodium phosphate, Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium benzoate, Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate, Potassium phosphate, Ascorbic acid, Sodium acetate, Lysine hcl, Arginine, Alanine, Histidine, Valine, Potassium sorbate, Leucine, Threonine, Isoleucine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Tyrosine, Glycine, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Cystine, Cyanocobalamin, Glutathione, Asparagine, Aspartic acid, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Ornithine, Glutamic acid, Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, Tocopherol, Proline, Tributyl citrate, Aminobutyric acid, Methionine, Taurine, Hydroxyproline, Glucosamine, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Coenzyme a, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Thiamine diphosphate, Glycine soja oil, Ci 17200, Retinyl acetate, Inositol, Niacin, Niacinamide, Pyridoxine hcl, Biotin, Calcium pantothenate, Folic acid, Riboflavin, Tocopheryl phosphate

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	FilorgaNCEF-Intensive Supreme Regenerating SerumYOUR PRODUCT	SKIN&LABVitamin C Brightening Serum	REMEDY SCIENCEREMEDY for healthy aging	Skin NutritionsDouble Strength Retinol Night Repair Serum
Match	—	83%	81%	81%
Price	—	$13.89	$35.00	$28.95
Shared key ingredients	—	9 of 35	7 of 35	7 of 35
Key difference	—	3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid	Retinal	Retinyl Palmitate
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 43 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oilsmdpi.com
6
Wheat in skin caremdedge.com
7
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
Benzophenone 4: An emerging allergen in cosmetics and toiletries?pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
12
Safety Assessment of Magnesium Sulfate as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
16
Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseasespatents.google.com
18
Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmeticsciteseerx.ist.psu.edu
19
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
20
Local rhamnosoft, ceramides and L‐isoleucine in atopic eczema: a randomized, placebo controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
22
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
23
Topical vitamin B12--a new therapeutic approach in atopic dermatitis-evaluation of efficacy and tolerability in a randomized placebo-controlled multicentre clinical trialpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Superiority of a vitamin B12-containing emollient compared to a standard emollient in the maintenance treatment of mild-to-moderate plaque psoriasisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversiesijdvl.com
26
Glutathione for skin lightening: a regnant myth or evidence-based verity?ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
27
Glutathione for skin lightening for dermatologists and cosmetologistsijord.com
28
Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
32
gamma-Aminobutyric acid (A) receptor agonists accelerate cutaneous barrier recovery and prevent epidermal hyperplasia induced by barrier disruptionpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Wound healing activity of gamma-aminobutyric Acid (GABA) in ratspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Moisturizing effect of Gamma-aminobutyric acid for cosmetic applicationam-2017.weebly.com
35
Stimulation of human fibroblast collagen synthesis in vitro by gamma-aminobutyric acidpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Cosmeceuttical Critigue: Taurinemdedge.com
37
Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
40
Calcium pantothenate modulates gene expression in proliferating human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
41
Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivokarger.com
42
Dexapanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritationtandfonline.com
43
Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivopubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

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