Estée Lauder Hydrationist - Maximum Moisture Creme

Hydrationist - Maximum Moisture Creme

Efficacy 75/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
22 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, faex.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, dimethicone.

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.45–0.65%
ACETYL CARNITINE HCLRole: Key activeMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
ALGAE EXTRACTRole: Key activePlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%
ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU SEED BUTTERRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic due to the myrisic acid content~0.3–0.55%
ATELOCOLLAGENRole: Key activeA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
CHITOSANRole: Key activeInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
COCOS NUCIFERA OILRole: Key activeAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.25–0.5%
DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.7–6.9%
FAEXRole: Key activeYeast extract. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3%
LINOLENIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.65%
PEG-10 DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~0.3–0.6%
PHENYL TRIMETHICONERole: Key activeA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
POLYSILICONE-11Role: Key activeA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~1–1.2%
SACCHARIDE ISOMERATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
SODIUM PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%
SPHINGOLIPIDSRole: Key activeSphingolipids are a group of lipids with a common chemical structure. Some of them are naturally present in skin and can be converted to ceramides~0.3–0.55%
TREHALOSERole: Key activeA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
YEAST EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
7-DEHYDROCHOLESTEROLRole: Key activePro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis~0.25–0.5%
ZEA MAYS OILRole: Key activeA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
4 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Good evidence

This product contains adenosine phosphate, atelocollagen, vitis vinifera seed extract. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

ADENOSINE PHOSPHATERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to stimulate collagen production in skin~0.25–0.5%
ALGAE EXTRACTRole: Key activePlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.3–0.55%
ATELOCOLLAGENRole: Key activeA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.35–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Brand does not advertise this — the formula does
Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride, vitis vinifera seed extract) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - chitosan also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CHITOSANRole: Key activeInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%
ETHYLBISIMINOMETHYLGUAIACOL MANGANESE CHLORIDERole: Key activeA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applications~0.15–0.3%
GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that can be effective for calming down inflammation and lightening the skin, but the effectivenss in products can vary significantly based on the extract quality and concentration used~0.25–0.45%
HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.4–0.6%
ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%
VITIS VINIFERA SEED EXTRACTRole: Key activeA plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation~0.35–0.6%
YEAST EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Irritancy
25 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus reticulata peel extractA likely irritant. Might have some anti-oxidant activity, but is mostly used as a fragrance in cosmetic productsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Humulus lupulus extractHops extract. Can contain common irritants and allergens geraniol, limonene, linaloolHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarateUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product textureLow~1.7–2.1%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~1.4–1.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~0.5–0.75%est.
Haberlea rhodopensis leaf extractA plant extract that if used in high concentration might help to neutralize free radicals in skinLow~0.4–0.6%est.
Polygonum cuspidatum root extractA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the productLow~0.45–0.65%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectLow~0.35–0.65%est.
Beta vulgaris root extractA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its colorLow~0.3–0.5%est.
Astrocaryum murumuru seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic due to the myrisic acid contentLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Hordeum vulgare extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to glutenLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.35–0.65%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.6%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.3–0.5%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationLow~0.35–0.65%est.
7-dehydrocholesterolPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasisLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Punica granatum fruit juiceA fruit juice. Might have some anti-oxidant properties but is unlikely to have any benefit when used in skincareLow~0.25–0.5%est.
ChitosanInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.3–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Nordihydroguaiaretic acidUsed to stabilize the formula of product formulation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinLow~0.25–0.5%est.
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chlorideA potent anti-oxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and protect from harmful effects of sun exposure, even though more studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness in topical applicationsLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin
High risk
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Padina pavonica thallus extractMight help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yetHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product textureHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenicHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Zea mays oilA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier functionHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Dimethicone~5.7–6.9%
Key active
Isononyl isononanoate~4.5–5.5%
Formula
Hdi/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Glycerin~2.4–3%
Key active
Butylene glycol~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Di-c12-15 alkyl fumarate~1.7–2.1%
Low-irritation
Steareth-2~1.4–1.7%
Low-irritation
Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Polysilicone-11~1–1.2%
Key active
Ethylhexyl isononanoate~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Citrus reticulata peel extract~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Padina pavonica thallus extract~0.5–0.7%
Comedo · high
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.5–0.75%
Low-irritation
Haberlea rhodopensis leaf extract~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Polygonum cuspidatum root extract~0.45–0.65%
Low-irritation
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.35–0.65%
Low-irritation
Vitis vinifera seed extract~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Beta vulgaris root extract~0.3–0.5%
Low-irritation
Beta vulgaris~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Hydrolyzed rice extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Humulus lupulus extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Algae extract~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedo · high
Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter~0.3–0.55%
Key activeLow-irritation
Hydroxypropyltrimonium honey~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Hordeum vulgare extract~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Yeast extract~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Faex~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Yeast extract~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Steareth-21~0.35–0.65%
Low-irritation
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.3–0.6%
Key activeComedo · high
Saccharide isomerate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Phytantriol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Low-irritation
Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Tromethamine~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.3–0.5%
Low-irritation
Peg-10 dimethicone~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Isohexadecane~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Unknown~0%
Formula
Propylene glycol dicaprate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Trehalose~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Helianthus annuus seedcake~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Cocos nucifera oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedo · high
Polysorbate 80~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Sodium pca~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Phenyl trimethicone~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Linolenic acid~0.35–0.65%
Key activeLow-irritation
Adenosine phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Linoleic acid~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
7-dehydrocholesterol~0.25–0.5%
Key activeLow-irritation
Acetyl carnitine hcl~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Cyclodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Punica granatum fruit juice~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Atelocollagen~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Silica~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Chitosan~0.3–0.5%
Key activeLow-irritation
Sphingolipids~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Dextrin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Nordihydroguaiaretic acid~0.25–0.5%
Low-irritation
Carbomer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Zea mays oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedo · high
Parfum~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Stearyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol manganese chloride~0.15–0.3%
Key activeLow-irritation
Silica dimethyl silylate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Low-irritation
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula

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