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ESPA Tri-Active™ Advanced Instant Facial
ESPA

ESPA Tri-Active™ Advanced Instant Facial

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
22 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Antioxidant Macroalgae Cell Extract helps smooth the appearance of fine lines, White Truffle Extract helps boost elasticity, while Coconut, Jojoba and Avocado Oils help nourish and strengthen skin’s moisture barrier.”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seedKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.45%
Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.1–3.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.3–2.9%
Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.2–0.4%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~1.8–2.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–4.6%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.55–0.85%
Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
ChitosanKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.5–0.75%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Anti-aging
6 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Antioxidant Macroalgae Cell Extract helps smooth the appearance of fine lines, White Truffle Extract helps boost elasticity, while Coconut, Jojoba and Avocado Oils help nourish and strengthen skin’s moisture barrier.”
Source: Espa UK

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient chitosan might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.1–3.8%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.45%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.25%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (chitosan, squalene) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

ChitosanKey activeEffect: MediumInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.25–0.45%
Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.1–3.8%
Daucus carota sativa seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect~0.15–0.25%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.3%
Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.35%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.25%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.15%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains chitosan.

ChitosanKey activeEffect: HighInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
BentoniteEffect: LowHelps stabilize the product formulation~0.75–1.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
20 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 18 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 39 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil—High~0.15–0.3%est.
Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.3–2.9%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
ChitosanInhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.1–3.8%est.
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~1.8–2.2%est.
Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides~5.8–7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides
Glycerin~3.8–4.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.1–3.8%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.3–2.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cocos nucifera oil~1.8–2.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed
Palmitic/stearic triglyceride~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Palmitic/stearic triglyceride
Bentonite~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemish

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Bentonite
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Limonene~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Acacia senegal gum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tuber magnatum extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tuber magnatum extract
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Inulin lauryl carbamate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Inulin lauryl carbamate
Olive oil decyl esters~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Olive oil decyl esters
Benzoic acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Alaria esculenta extract~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Sclerotium gum~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Oenothera biennis oil~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Citric acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Hydrated silica~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying
More about Hydrated silica
Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract
Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Persea gratissima oil~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Chitosan~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationMoisturizing

Inhibits acne-causing bacteria on the surface of the skin. Can help to reduce inflammation caused by bacteria. Helps neutralize free radicals in skin. Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Chitosan
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Glucose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Squalene~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil
Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cymbopogon nardus oil
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Benzyl benzoate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Chondrus crispus extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract
Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Farnesol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Maris sal~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Beta-carotene~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ingredient list view

Water, Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cocos nucifera oil, Phenoxyethanol, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed, Palmitic/stearic triglyceride, Bentonite, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Limonene, Xanthan gum, Ascorbyl glucoside, Sodium hyaluronate, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia senegal gum, Tocopherol, Tuber magnatum extract, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Inulin lauryl carbamate, Olive oil decyl esters, Benzoic acid, Alaria esculenta extract, Sclerotium gum, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Dehydroacetic acid, Citric acid, Hydrated silica, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Persea gratissima oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Linalool, Chitosan, Geraniol, Potassium sorbate, Glucose, Citronellol, Lactic acid, Squalene, Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil, Citral, Benzyl benzoate, Sodium benzoate, Chondrus crispus extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Benzyl salicylate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Farnesol, Maris sal, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Ascorbyl palmitate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  3. 3
    The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
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