ESPA Pro-Glow Skin-Quenching Serum

ESPA Pro-Glow Skin-Quenching Serum

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Glycerin + 16 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This serum is refreshingly hydrating, bringing you supple feeling skin that radiates with vitality.”
Source: Espa UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, trehalose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, linolenic acid.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.35–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.9–3.6%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.25–0.5%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.25–0.5%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~6.1–7.4%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~4.2–5.1%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~1.3–1.6%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.25–0.45%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.25–0.45%
Glyceryl undecylenate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation~0.25–0.45%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.2–0.4%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.1–0.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
15 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 13 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 28 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
DihydroxyacetoneA self-tanning agentHigh~1.7–2.1%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.65–1%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Paullinia cupana seed extract—High~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Cymbopogon nardus oil—High~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~6.1–7.4%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~4.2–5.1%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Spirulina maxima extract—3/5~0.15–0.25%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~6.1–7.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Pentylene glycol~4.2–5.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Glycerin~2.9–3.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~2.2–2.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dihydroxyacetone~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Tanning

A self-tanning agent

More about Dihydroxyacetone
Erythrulose~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Erythrulose
Glyceryl caprylate~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Limonene~0.65–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Tocopherol~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Polyglyceryl-3 stearate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 stearate
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Linoleic acid~0.35–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Glyceryl undecylenate
Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Trehalose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Oleic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Parfum~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Paullinia cupana seed extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Cymbopogon nardus oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Palmitic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Stearic acid~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil
Rosa centifolia flower extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower extract
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linolenic acid~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Spirulina maxima extract~0.15–0.25%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Spirulina maxima extract
Citric acid~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Pentylene glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dihydroxyacetone, Erythrulose, Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Limonene, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Sclerotium gum, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sodium benzoate, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Xanthan gum, Linoleic acid, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Glyceryl undecylenate, Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Trehalose, Oleic acid, Parfum, Paullinia cupana seed extract, Linalool, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Geraniol, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Citral, Linolenic acid, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Spirulina maxima extract, Citric acid, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAPro-Glow Skin-Quenching SerumYOUR PRODUCTPrequelREDNESS REFORM SOOTHING SERUMZelensPower A Retexturising and Renewing SerumSkinbetter ScienceEven Tone Correcting Serum
Match—60%59%59%
Price—$19.99$57.62—
Shared key ingredients—4 of 95 of 95 of 9
Key difference—Glycolic AcidHydroxypinacolone RetinoateAlpha-Arbutin
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
ESPA Pro-Glow Skin-Quenching Serum
ESPAPro-Glow Skin-Quenching Serum

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.