Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Sun protection
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
Based on the ingredient list, we assess that "ESPA - Optimal Pro-Moisturiser SPF 30" can provide reliable sun protection. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).
Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product helps prevent early signs of aging.
Sunscreen filters
This sunscreen uses so-called "chemical", or organic UV filters (organic simply means that their molecules contain atoms of carbon). These filters typically give good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for sensitive skin. The UV filters in this sunscreen are: avobenzone 3.60% - 4.40%, octisalate 3.20% - 3.90% and octocrylene 4.70% - 5.80%.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 50.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 132.00CA$ in Canada.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
Sun protection
This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.
This sunscreen uses organic (so-called "chemical") sunscreen filters. Organic, or "chemical" filters usually provide reliable sun protection and rarely leave a white cast. Sunscreens with organic filters can sting eyes.
This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.
A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.
Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Optimal Pro-Moisturiser SPF 30
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
anhydroxylitol, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables.
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function
A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps create a non-greasy finish on the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Sun protection |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 95/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes, Octocrylene, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Glycerin, Propylheptyl caprylate, Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, Xylitylglucoside, Cetyl stearate, Undecane, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Tribehenin, Cetearyl alcohol, Anhydroxylitol, Limonene, Cetyl palmitate, Propanediol, Sodium benzoate, Cetyl alcohol, Isostearyl isostearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Tridecane, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Sorbitan palmitate, Xanthan gum, Xylitol, Potassium sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hyaluronate, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Tocopherol, Linoleic acid, Gluconolactone, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Sodium citrate, Sorbitan oleate, Glucose, Sodium phytate, Myrothamnus flabellifolia leaf/stem extract, Oleic acid, Parfum, Linalool, Stearic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Cymbopogon nardus oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Palmitic acid, Geraniol, Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Citral, Linolenic acid, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Parfum
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenes
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Function
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Ethnopharmacological Properties and Medicinal Uses of Litsea cubeba
- Biological Activities and Safety of Citrus spp. Essential Oils