ESPA Modern Alchemy Hydrating Lotion

ESPA Modern Alchemy Hydrating Lotion

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Coco-caprylate, Glycerin + 6 more
Works
What the product description says
“Modern Alchemy Hydrating Lotion”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, jojoba esters.

Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~4.6–5.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.8%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~1.2–1.5%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.95–1.15%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.7–1.05%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.7–3.3%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.95–1.15%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“With regular use, skin will have a more even tone with minimised imperfections* for a clearer, brighter surface.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Cornus officinalis fruit extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil + 2 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (cornus officinalis fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Cornus officinalis fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that contains anti-oxidants. It might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used to help preserve the product formulation~0.45–0.7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilEffect: LowA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
25 strong irritants: Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil + 23 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 39 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~1.5–1.8%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1.4–1.7%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Cornus officinalis fruit extractA plant extract that contains anti-oxidants. It might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used to help preserve the product formulationHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Boswellia carterii oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil—High~0.45–0.7%est.
Coriandrum sativum seed oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.5–0.8%est.
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil—High~0.45–0.7%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Zingiber officinale root oilAn essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivityHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ocimum basilicum oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil—High~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Cinnamal—High~0.1–0.25%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~4.6–5.6%est.
Tapioca starchUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~4.6–5.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.7–3.3%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.9–2.3%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.65–0.95%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Serenoa serrulata fruit extractA plant extract that might help calm down inflammation in skin but evidence of effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.95–1.15%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coco-caprylate~4.6–5.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Tapioca starch~4.6–5.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Tapioca starch
Propanediol~3.4–4.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~2.7–3.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Glycerin~2.3–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~1.9–2.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Limonene~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Jojoba esters~1.2–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Cocos nucifera oil~0.95–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Glyceryl caprylate~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Xanthan gum~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Levulinic acid~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
Cetyl alcohol~0.7–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Parfum~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
P-anisic acid~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Sodium levulinate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil
Linalool~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Cornus officinalis fruit extract~0.45–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that contains anti-oxidants. It might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used to help preserve the product formulation

More about Cornus officinalis fruit extract
Eucommia ulmoides bark extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Rehmannia glutinosa root extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Boswellia carterii oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Boswellia carterii oil
Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Coriandrum sativum seed oil~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Coriandrum sativum seed oil
Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Elettaria cardamomum seed oil~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Mentha piperita oil~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Sodium hydroxide~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Zingiber officinale root oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil that is likely to be irritating and can cause photosensitivity

More about Zingiber officinale root oil
Lepidium meyenii extract~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Citral~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Eugenol~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Ocimum sanctum leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals

More about Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Serenoa serrulata fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help calm down inflammation in skin but evidence of effectiveness is lacking

More about Serenoa serrulata fruit extract
Benzyl benzoate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Caramel~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Ocimum basilicum oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Ocimum basilicum oil
Piper nigrum fruit oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Farnesol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Cinnamal~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cinnamal
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sorbic acid~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Coco-caprylate, Tapioca starch, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Glycerin, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Limonene, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Jojoba esters, Cocos nucifera oil, Glyceryl caprylate, Xanthan gum, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Levulinic acid, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Parfum, P-anisic acid, Sodium levulinate, Cananga odorata flower oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Linalool, Cornus officinalis fruit extract, Eucommia ulmoides bark extract, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, Boswellia carterii oil, Cinnamomum zeylanicum leaf oil, Coriandrum sativum seed oil, Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, Elettaria cardamomum seed oil, Mentha piperita oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Sodium hydroxide, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Zingiber officinale root oil, Lepidium meyenii extract, Citral, Eugenol, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Serenoa serrulata fruit extract, Benzyl benzoate, Caramel, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Ocimum basilicum oil, Piper nigrum fruit oil, Thymus vulgaris flower/leaf oil, Tocopherol, Benzyl salicylate, Geraniol, Farnesol, Cinnamal, Potassium sorbate, Sorbic acid

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Dermstore200 ml
$54.40
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ESPAModern Alchemy Hydrating LotionYOUR PRODUCTBurt's BeesBurt's Beesreg; Richly Replenishing Cocoa and Cupuaçu Butters Body LotionNubian HeritageBody Lotion- Mango ButterBabo BotanicalsMoisturizing Baby Lotion - Oatmilk
Match—36%36%36%
Price$54.40——$22.25−$32.15
Shared key ingredients—3 of 53 of 51 of 5
Key difference—BeeswaxPanthenolAvena Sativa Kernel Flour
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Sodium anisateecha.europa.eu
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
ESPA Modern Alchemy Hydrating Lotion
ESPAModern Alchemy Hydrating Lotion

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.