ELEMIS Anti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30

ELEMIS Anti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30

SPF 30Efficacy60/100IrritancyHigh·3 UV filters
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Works for

0 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 30 · 3 UV filters · Broad spectrum
Weak protectionLow filter dose
SPF 30Broad spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Octinoxate
Octocrylene
Avobenzone
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
OctinoxateEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateUVBOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating~1.4–1.8%
OctocryleneUVB Photo-stable A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen~0.7–1.05%
AvobenzoneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneUVA1Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.~1.7–2.1%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Anti-aging
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Tocopherol
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“Anti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30”
From product name

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

This ingredient rubus idaeus seed oil might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Borago officinalis seed oil, Biosaccharide gum-1 + 12 more
Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, borago officinalis seed oil.

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.25–0.45%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.3–4%
Coco-caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture~5.2–6.3%
Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Isostearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–2.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.4–2.9%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.4–0.65%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2.1%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.45–0.65%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Rubus idaeus seed oil, Borago officinalis seed oil + 4 more
Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (rubus idaeus seed oil) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.75–1.15%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.3–0.5%
Myrtus communis leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.55–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Parfum + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~1.4–1.8%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Melissa officinalis leaf extractA plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
PapainAn enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Myrtus communis leaf extractA plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Coco-caprylateAn emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product textureMedium~5.2–6.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.3–4%est.
Butylene glycol cocoateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.7–2.1%est.
Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.55–0.8%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Juniperus virginiana oilCedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Ecklonia cava extract—3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coco-caprylate~5.2–6.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that softens skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Coco-caprylate
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.3–4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cetyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Isostearyl alcohol~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Isostearyl alcohol
Butylene glycol~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Butylene glycol cocoate~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Butylene glycol cocoate
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.7–2.1%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~1.4–1.8%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Rubus idaeus seed oil~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Octocrylene~0.7–1.05%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Carbomer~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Propylene glycol~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Behenyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Melissa officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is added for its fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Melissa officinalis leaf extract
Ethylcellulose~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ethylcellulose
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Papain~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Exfoliation

An enzyme extracted from papaya fruit. Can have an exfoliating effect on the skin. Can be irritating

More about Papain
Borago officinalis seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Hydrogenated castor oil~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Euphrasia officinalis extract~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Protease~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Protease
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Hexyl cinnamal~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Codium tomentosum extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Ecklonia cava extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Ecklonia cava extract
Gelidium cartilagineum extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Hizikia fusiforme extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Myrtus communis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties

More about Myrtus communis leaf extract
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Subtilisin~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Subtilisin
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Coumarin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Poria cocos extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Dipteryx odorata bean extract~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Ribes nigrum bud extract~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Juniperus virginiana oil~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Cedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Juniperus virginiana oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Coco-caprylate, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cetyl alcohol, Isostearyl alcohol, Butylene glycol, Butylene glycol cocoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Octocrylene, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Propylene glycol, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Behenyl alcohol, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Ethylcellulose, Xanthan gum, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Tocopherol, Disodium edta, Papain, Borago officinalis seed oil, Parfum, Sodium hydroxide, Lecithin, Sodium dehydroacetate, Hydrogenated castor oil, Stearyl alcohol, Euphrasia officinalis extract, Mimosa tenuiflora bark extract, Protease, Biosaccharide gum-1, Hexyl cinnamal, Citric acid, Codium tomentosum extract, Ecklonia cava extract, Gelidium cartilagineum extract, Hizikia fusiforme extract, Myrtus communis leaf extract, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Subtilisin, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Coumarin, Poria cocos extract, Dipteryx odorata bean extract, Ribes nigrum bud extract, Juniperus virginiana oil

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Product summary

"ELEMIS - Anti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30" is using UV filters in a relatively low concentration. Because of this, it might not be able to provide reliable sun protection.

It contains good moisturizing ingredients and can double as a hydrating day cream.

Sunscreen filters

This sunscreen uses so-called "chemical", or organic UV filters (organic simply means that their molecules contain atoms of carbon). These filters typically give good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for sensitive skin. Here are the exact UV filters in this sunscreen: avobenzone 1.70% - 2.10%, octinoxate 1.40% - 1.80% and octocrylene 0.70% - 1.05%.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "ELEMIS" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 71.20£ up to 1972.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
ELEMIS Anti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30
ELEMISAnti-Ageing Dynamic Resurfacing Day Cream SPF30

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