Dr Dennis Gross Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

Dr Dennis Gross Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
33 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glycine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.5–0.7%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~1.4–1.8%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.3–0.6%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%
Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.25–0.5%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~2.3–2.9%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.45–0.7%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.7%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.3–1.5%
HydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: HighIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.25–0.45%
CarnitineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.9–1.1%
Carnitine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.25–0.5%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.75%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.45–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.55–0.8%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.5%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.25–0.5%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
11 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Works to smooth the look of wrinkles and fine lines Promotes a more radiant complexion Helps to visibly improve elasticity Contributes to a stronger moisture barrier Suitable for all skin types Cruelty-free and vegan Contains no parabens, phthalates or sulphates UK200035174”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.65–1%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%
HydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.55–0.8%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.5%
Evens skin tone
6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Skin Type Normal, Dry, and Combination Skincare Concerns Dryness, Dullness, and Loss of Firmness and Elasticity Formulation Cream Highlighted Ingredients , 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid A form of vitamin C that intensely penetrates to minimize and prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles.”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.65–1%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.75%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.55–0.8%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.45–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 14 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.3–0.6%
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.65–1%
Cucumis melo fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.25–0.5%
Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%
Rubus idaeus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.5%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.25–0.5%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.55–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
14 strong irritants: Alcohol, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract + 12 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 36 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.65–1%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Elettaria cardamomum seed extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Cananga odorata flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower extractUsed as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Salvia officinalis leaf extractSage leaf extract. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
Santalum album wood extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Amyl cinnamal—High~0.15–0.25%est.
GlyoxalA preservative. Is a formaldehyde-releaser and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.55–0.8%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Rubus idaeus fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.7–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Camellia japonica seed oil~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil
Oryza sativa bran oil~2.3–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Dimethicone~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Sucrose~1.4–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Pentylene glycol~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.3–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.65–1%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid
Lactic acid~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Niacinamide~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Squalane~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Ceramide np~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Saccharide isomerate~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Superoxide dismutase~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Ubiquinone~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Adenosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Collagen amino acids~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids
Hydroxyproline~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-aging

Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Hydroxyproline
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.25–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Carnitine~0.9–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMattifyingMoisturizingAnti-blemish
More about Carnitine
Glycine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Carnitine hcl~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Carnitine hcl
Lactobacillus ferment~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Maltodextrin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Ammonium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Ammonium hydroxide
Potassium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Biotin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Sodium phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate
Sodium nitrate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium nitrate
Tromethamine~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Sodium citrate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Trisodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps preserve product formulations

More about Trisodium edta
Citric acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium phytate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Triethyl citrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Elettaria cardamomum seed extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Elettaria cardamomum seed extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Rubus idaeus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Rubus idaeus fruit extract
Cananga odorata flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium amara flower extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower extract
Coffea arabica seed extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract
Cucumis melo fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Cucumis melo fruit extract
Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.25–0.45%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Fucus vesiculosus extract
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Rose extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Salvia officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Sage leaf extract. It can be irritating

More about Salvia officinalis leaf extract
Santalum album wood extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album wood extract
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Amyl cinnamal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Amyl cinnamal
Glyoxal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Is a formaldehyde-releaser and can be irritating

More about Glyoxal
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Camellia japonica seed oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Lactic acid, Niacinamide, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Ceramide np, Saccharide isomerate, Superoxide dismutase, Ubiquinone, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Adenosine, Collagen amino acids, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Glycolic acid, Carnitine, Glycine, Carnitine hcl, Lactobacillus ferment, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Hydrogenated lecithin, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Ammonium hydroxide, Potassium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Biotin, Alcohol, Disodium phosphate, Sodium phosphate, Sodium nitrate, Tromethamine, Sodium citrate, Trisodium edta, Citric acid, Sodium phytate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Triethyl citrate, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Rubus idaeus fruit extract, Cananga odorata flower extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus aurantium amara flower extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Rose extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Salvia officinalis leaf extract, Santalum album wood extract, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Amyl cinnamal, Glyoxal, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr Dennis GrossVitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep CreamYOUR PRODUCTMEDI-PEELRed Lacto Collagen Barrier CreamLABIOTTEPremium Collagen Full Up CreamNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream
Match—80%79%78%
Price$75.00—$49.30−$25.70$39.59−$35.41
Shared key ingredients—10 of 289 of 2810 of 28
Key difference—Copper Tripeptide-1PanthenolCopper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Dr Dennis Gross - Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, glycerin, glycine, lactobacillus ferment and saccharide isomerate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, oryza sativa bran oil, dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product contains acids (glycolic acid 0.25% - 0.45% and lactic acid 0.55% - 0.80%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). Lactic acid is particularly good in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and improving the skin barrier.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.45% - 0.70%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.40%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, lecithin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, niacinamide and lactic acid

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 75.00$ in the United States, from 95.00CA$ up to 101.10CA$ in Canada and from 76.00£ up to 89.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 49 studies and safety reviews.

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Dr Dennis Gross Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream
Dr Dennis GrossVitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.