Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream”

From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.5%

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidEffect: LowA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.65–1%

HydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.45–0.7%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.55–0.8%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.5%

Moisturizing

29 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glycine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8

Collagen amino acidsKey activeEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function~0.55–0.8%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.4%

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~1.4–1.8%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.5%

Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~2.3–2.9%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.3–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.5%

Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.25–0.5%

HydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: HighIs helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking~0.45–0.7%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~1.3–1.5%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.45–0.65%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.7–5.7%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–0.7%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Carnitine hclKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumMight be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.7%

CarnitineKey activeEffect: Medium~1.1–1.3%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.9–4.8%

BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.25–0.5%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.6%

Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%

Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.25–0.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Evens skin tone

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Fine lines and wrinkles If you want to know more… C+ Collagen Deep Cream features 3-O vitamin C technology that quickly absorbs into skin to correct the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles while helping prevent the formation of future damage.”

Source: Sephora

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.65–1%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.6%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.25–0.5%

Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.5%

Cucumis melo fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

Rubus idaeus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.55%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

9 strong irritants: Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Citrus aurantium amara flower extract + 7 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.65–1%est.

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Elettaria cardamomum seed extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower extractUsed as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Cananga odorata flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Salvia officinalis leaf extractSage leaf extract. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Santalum album wood extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.5–1.8%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.95–1.15%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Rubus idaeus fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Triethyl citrateUsed as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritationMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Fucus vesiculosus extract—3/5~0.25–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.7–5.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butylene glycol~3.9–4.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Camellia japonica seed oil~3.1–3.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil

Oryza sativa bran oil~2.3–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil

Dimethicone~2–2.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Sucrose~1.4–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose

Pentylene glycol~1.5–1.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Helianthus annuus seed oil~1.3–1.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.95–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid~0.65–1%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid

Collagen amino acids~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, soften it and support the skin barrier function

More about Collagen amino acids

Niacinamide~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Carnitine hcl~0.5–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Might be helpful in decreasing sebum production making the skin less oily. Is claimed to be able to support ceramide production in skin that leads to better hydration, but evidence is lacking. Is able to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Carnitine hcl

Hydroxyproline~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-aging

Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking

More about Hydroxyproline

Glycine~0.45–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Carnitine~1.1–1.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingCleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

More about Carnitine

Squalane~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Saccharide isomerate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.3–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Superoxide dismutase~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationMoisturizing

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Ubiquinone~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Lactobacillus ferment~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Glycolic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Biotin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin

Maltodextrin~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Carbomer~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ammonium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Ammonium hydroxide

Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Potassium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide

Sodium phytate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Citric acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract

Elettaria cardamomum seed extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Elettaria cardamomum seed extract

Citrus aurantium amara flower extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower extract

Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extract

Fucus vesiculosus extract~0.25–0.5%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Fucus vesiculosus extract

Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract

Rubus idaeus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Rubus idaeus fruit extract

Cananga odorata flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower extract

Coffea arabica seed extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract

Rose extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract

Cucumis melo fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Cucumis melo fruit extract

Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract

Salvia officinalis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Sage leaf extract. It can be irritating

More about Salvia officinalis leaf extract

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract

Santalum album wood extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album wood extract

Triethyl citrate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used as a fragrance. Rarely causes irritation

More about Triethyl citrate

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Camellia japonica seed oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Dimethicone, Sucrose, Pentylene glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, Collagen amino acids, Niacinamide, Carnitine hcl, Hydroxyproline, Glycine, Carnitine, Squalane, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Saccharide isomerate, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Superoxide dismutase, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Ubiquinone, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Lactobacillus ferment, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Glycolic acid, Lecithin, Biotin, Maltodextrin, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ammonium hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Potassium hydroxide, Sodium phytate, Sodium citrate, Citric acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Citrus aurantium amara flower extract, Cupressus sempervirens leaf/stem extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Rubus idaeus fruit extract, Cananga odorata flower extract, Coffea arabica seed extract, Rose extract, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Salvia officinalis leaf extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Santalum album wood extract, Triethyl citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr Dennis GrossVitamin C+ Collagen Deep CreamYOUR PRODUCT	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICProbiotics Youth Relief Cream	Holika HolikaPrime Youth Black Snail Repair Cream	Secret KeyHyaluron Aqua Soft Cream
Match	—	76%	74%	74%
Price	$72.00	$35.10−$36.90	$27.44−$44.56	$11.40−$60.60
Shared key ingredients	—	9 of 24	5 of 24	4 of 24
Key difference	—	Tripeptide-1	Acetyl Heptapeptide-9	Lactic Acid
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Dr Dennis Gross - Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Dr Dennis Gross - Vitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, glycerin, glycine, lactobacillus ferment and saccharide isomerate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Oryza sativa bran oil, dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.30% - 0.50%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 41 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Valuelink.springer.com
3
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
4
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
5
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
6
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
7
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Antioxidant Ability and Stability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic Tyrosinase Inhibitorncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Topically applied L-carnitine effectively reduces sebum secretion in human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
15
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
17
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
20
A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).alliedacademies.org
21
Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledgefrontiersin.org
23
Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreenonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorderslink.springer.com
25
Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activityresearchgate.net
26
Skin protective effects of RM191A, a novel superoxide dismutase mimeticbiorxiv.org
27
The effect of probiotics on immune regulation, acne, and photoagingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
28
Comparison of clinical and histological effects between lactobacillus-fermented Chamaecyparis obtusa and tea tree oil for the treatment of acne: an eight-week double-blind randomized controlled split-face studyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Use of Probiotics for Dermal Applicationsresearchgate.net
30
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
33
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin modelsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
35
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of a Cucumis melo LC. extract rich in superoxide dismutase activityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF FRUIT EXTRACTS USED IN COSMETIC PRODUCTSue.poznan.pl
37
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
39
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
40
Allergic contact dermatitis caused by Salvia officinalis extractpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Citric Acid, Inorganic Citrate Salts and Alkyl Citrate Esters As Used in Cosmetics cir-safety.org

Dr Dennis GrossVitamin C+ Collagen Deep Cream

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