Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Moisturizer

Name: Dr Dennis Gross - Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Moisturizer
Brand: Dr Dennis Gross

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging

Lactic acid, Glycolic acid + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Glycolic Acid: Refines the look of skin texture and minimizes visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots.”

Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lactic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.9–6%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.3–5.2%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.45%

Evens skin tone

Lactic acid, Glycolic acid + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Glycolic Acid: Refines the look of skin texture and minimizes visible signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots.”

Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, hydroxyethyl urea, lactic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.9–6%

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%

Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.4–0.6%

Anti-blemish

Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid + 3 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Farnesol: Reduces the occurrence of breakouts.”

Source: Sephora CA

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid, mandelic acid

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.4–0.6%

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~4.3–5.2%

Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.45–0.65%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.35–0.6%

Exfoliation

Lactic acid, Glycolic acid + 5 more

Works well

What the product description says

“This oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturiser works to boost skin’s radiance with a gentle-but-effective blend of seven active AHA and BHA exfoliants, which help to refine the skin and diminish the appearance of pores and fine lines by supporting the skin’s natural renewal cycles and cell turnover.”

Source: SpaceNK EU

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, hydroxyethyl urea, lactic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.4–0.6%

Tartaric acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels~0.3–0.55%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.25–0.45%

Moisturizing

Ceramide np, Lactic acid + 24 more

Works well

What the product description says

“With impressive smoothing and refining properties, the cream dispels dryness, deeply moisturising your complexion without leaving behind unwanted greasy or heavy residues.”

Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~4.9–6%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.4–3%

Methyl gluceth-20Key active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it~1.6–2%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1–1.2%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.75–1.1%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.45–0.7%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.55%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.3–0.55%

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.55%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.25–0.5%

Ethylhexyl olivateKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.25–0.45%

C15-19 alkaneEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.4–1.7%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.35–0.65%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.25–0.45%

Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Tartaric acid, Salix alba bark extract + 7 more

May help

This product contains antioxidants (tartaric acid) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Cucumis melo fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%

Rubus idaeus fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.4%

Zingiber officinale root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking~0.2–0.35%

Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.25–0.45%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

8 strong irritants: Farnesol, Cinnamomum cassia bark extract + 6 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 31 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~4.3–5.2%est.

Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.4–0.6%est.

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.35–0.6%est.

FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Cinnamomum cassia bark extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Elettaria cardamomum seed extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Rose extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Eugenia caryophyllus flower extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Santalum album wood extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~4.9–6%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.75–1.1%est.

Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.6–0.85%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Tartaric acidAn AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levelsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Isoamyl laurateHelps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Cucumis melo fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Rubus idaeus fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.4%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

CeraVe Blemish Control Gel

Cheaper82% match

$13.92

Cellex-C Betaplex New Complexion Cream

Cheaper80% match

$38.03

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Lactic acid~4.9–6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Glycolic acid~4.3–5.2%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid

Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~3.1–3.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6

Squalane~2.4–3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

C13-15 alkane~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in the formula

More about C13-15 alkane

Methyl gluceth-20~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it

More about Methyl gluceth-20

C15-19 alkane~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about C15-19 alkane

Propanediol~1.2–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Glycerin~1–1.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.75–1.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Potassium hydroxide~0.6–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide

Sodium hydroxide~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Sodium pca~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Malic acid~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Malic acid

Mandelic acid~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid

Salicylic acid~0.4–0.6%

Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Salix alba bark extract~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Citric acid~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Tartaric acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationAnti-oxidationMoisturizing

An AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid). It oxidizes quickly which makes it less effective in skincare formulations. It can support skin's barrier and moisture levels

More about Tartaric acid

Farnesol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol

Bisabolol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Rehmannia glutinosa root extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Rehmannia glutinosa root extract

Sanguisorba officinalis root extract~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sanguisorba officinalis root extract

Cinnamomum cassia bark extract~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Cinnamomum cassia bark extract

Zingiber officinale root extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract

Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Saccharide isomerate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Jojoba esters~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters

Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Hydroxyethyl urea~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea

Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Dimethicone~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Ethylhexyl olivate~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl olivate

Isoamyl laurate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture

More about Isoamyl laurate

Isohexadecane~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Dicaprylyl ether~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Dimethiconol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Glycereth-26~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Tetrasodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta

Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract

Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract

Elettaria cardamomum seed extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Elettaria cardamomum seed extract

Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract

Cucumis melo fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Cucumis melo fruit extract

Rose extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rose extract

Rubus idaeus fruit extract~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Rubus idaeus fruit extract

Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract

Eugenia caryophyllus flower extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Eugenia caryophyllus flower extract

Santalum album wood extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album wood extract

Sodium citrate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Ammonium lactate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ammonium lactate

T-butyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritating

More about T-butyl alcohol

Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Tin oxide~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide

Titanium dioxide~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Mica~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Ingredient list view

Water, Lactic acid, Glycolic acid, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Squalane, C13-15 alkane, Methyl gluceth-20, C15-19 alkane, Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Potassium hydroxide, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium pca, Malic acid, Mandelic acid, Salicylic acid, Salix alba bark extract, Citric acid, Tartaric acid, Farnesol, Bisabolol, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, Cinnamomum cassia bark extract, Zingiber officinale root extract, Ceramide np, Sodium hyaluronate, Saccharide isomerate, Jojoba esters, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexyl olivate, Isoamyl laurate, Isohexadecane, Dicaprylyl ether, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl glycol, Glycereth-26, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Tetrasodium edta, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Cucumis melo fruit extract, Rose extract, Rubus idaeus fruit extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Eugenia caryophyllus flower extract, Santalum album wood extract, Sodium citrate, Ammonium lactate, T-butyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Tin oxide, Titanium dioxide, Mica

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Dermstore2 fl. oz

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Dr Dennis GrossAlpha Beta Pore Perfecting MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCT	CeraVeBlemish Control Gel	Cellex-CBetaplex New Complexion Cream	Paula's choice25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel
Match	—	82%	80%	79%
Price	—	$13.92	$38.03	$45.00
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 20	6 of 20	9 of 20
Key difference	—	Niacinamide	Allantoin	Glycyrrhetinic Acid
Irritancy	High	Low	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

More alternatives: Jan Marini Marini Multi-Acid Exfoliating Pads Beauty Drops AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Dr Dennis Gross - Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Moisturizer" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, lactic acid, saccharide isomerate and sodium hyaluronate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, jojoba esters, dimethicone, dimethiconol and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails from 54.40$ up to 79.00$ in the United States, for 79.00£ in the United Kingdom and from 90.00CA$ up to 138.30CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 33 studies and safety reviews.

1
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
3
Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
6
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditionsnucelle.com
8
Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasmajournals.lww.com
9
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
11
A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
12
Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Control of keratinization with á-hydroxy acids and related compounds: I. Topical treatment of ichthyotic disordersjamanetwork.com
16
Method of treating wrinkles using tartaric acidpatents.google.com
17
Impact of the condition of storage of tartaric acid solutions on the production and stability of glyoxylic acidsciencedirect.com
18
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
19
Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent researchsciencedirect.com
20
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
21
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
24
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
26
Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
27
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
28
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
29
Safety Assessment of Glycerin Ethoxylates as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
30
Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of a Cucumis melo LC. extract rich in superoxide dismutase activityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
31
ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF FRUIT EXTRACTS USED IN COSMETIC PRODUCTSue.poznan.pl
32
Amended final report of the safety assessment of t-Butyl Alcohol as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org

Dr Dennis GrossAlpha Beta Pore Perfecting Moisturizer

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.