PRODUCT REVIEW
Dr Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Packette
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Packette
glycolic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
adenosine
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
bakuchiol
1.6% -
2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
See visibly lifted skin, fewer lines & wrinkles, and more even tone & texture.
mandelic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
glycolic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
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Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Niacinamide helps strengthen skin’s moisture barrier while evening primrose extract helps improve and elasticity.
caprylic/capric triglyceride
3.2% -
3.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
glycerin
2.4% -
2.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
linoleic acid
0.75% -
1.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
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Anti-blemish
bakuchiol
1.6% -
2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
niacinamide
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
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Exfoliation
glycolic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
mandelic acid
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Anti-oxidation
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
bakuchiol
1.6% -
2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
ferulic acid
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Mattifying
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
silybum marianum extract
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glyceryl stearate se
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
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| WIMJ similarity score |
65%
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91%
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74%
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69%
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69%
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68%
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65%
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64%
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64%
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| Key ingredients |
| Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other: | Common:
Other:
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Other: | Common:
Other:
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Other:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Mattifying
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Potential irritants
retinol
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Mattifying
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
silybum marianum extract
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glyceryl stearate se
0.3% -
0.6%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
All ingredients
niacinamide
4.6% -
5.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Antibacterial,
Reduces redness,
Anti-inflammatory
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
propanediol
4% -
4.9%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract, Ferulic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Lactic acid, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Silybum marianum extract, Saccharide isomerate, Phospholipids, Oenothera biennis flower extract, Adenosine, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, Sodium pca, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Phytic acid, Tocopherol, Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid, Maltodextrin, Sodium hydroxide, Cetyl alcohol, Pvm/ma decadiene crosspolymer, Behenyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Arachidyl glucoside, Octoxynol-9, Arachidyl alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Oleth-10, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Sodium ascorbate, Citrus limon peel extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
Sources
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Property
- Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin
- Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Application
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Function
- Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids
- Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Summary of mandelic acid for the improvement of skin conditions
- Comparative Evaluation of Efficacy and Tolerability of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Mandelic Acid, and Phytic Acid Combination Peels in Melasma
- Article Menu Download PDF [PDF] Article Metrics Cite Share Request Permissions Related Articles Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Oleth-2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -7, -8, -9, -10, -11, -12, -15, -16, -20, -23, -25, -30, -40, -44, and -501