What's In My Jar
Dr Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Deluxe
Dr Dennis Gross

Dr Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Deluxe

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Retinol, Niacinamide + 7 more
Works well
What the product description says
“See visibly lifted skin, fewer lines & wrinkles, and more even tone & texture.”
Source: Dr Dennis Gross

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, adenosine, bakuchiol, glycolic acid, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.9–2.3%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~1.6–2%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.65%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.7–1.05%
Evens skin tone
Retinol, Niacinamide + 6 more
Works well
What the product description says
“See visibly lifted skin, fewer lines & wrinkles, and more even tone & texture.”
Source: Dr Dennis Gross

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.9–2.3%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~1.6–2%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.7–1.05%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Linoleic acid + 16 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Niacinamide helps strengthen skin’s moisture barrier while evening primrose extract helps improve and elasticity.”
Source: Dr Dennis Gross

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, linolenic acid.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid, niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%
Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.75–1.1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~3.2–3.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.65–1%
Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.5–0.75%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.65%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.4–0.6%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.4–0.6%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.3–0.6%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.4–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Silybum marianum extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone~0.55–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.7–1.05%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Retinol, Bakuchiol + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (bakuchiol, ferulic acid, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.9–2.3%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~1.6–2%
Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~1.1–1.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.45–0.65%
Silybum marianum extractUnder-dosedMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone~0.55–0.8%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Retinol, Mandelic acid + 2 more
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, mandelic acid, retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.9–2.3%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.7–1.05%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Retinol + 5 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide, retinol. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains bakuchiol. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid, linoleic acid, mandelic acid

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%
RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~1.9–2.3%
BakuchiolKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation~1.6–2%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.75–1.1%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: MediumHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
5 strong irritants: Retinol, Oenothera biennis flower extract + 3 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~1.9–2.3%est.
Silybum marianum extractMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin toneHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Oenothera biennis flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.15–0.25%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~3.2–3.9%est.
BakuchiolA plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritationMedium~1.6–2%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.7–1.05%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.65–1%est.
Phytic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmeticsMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Oleth-10Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.3–0.6%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum
ISNTREE Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum
Cheaper76% match
$13.71
L3 Bakuchiol 2 & Retinol 1.0 Serum
Cos De BAHA L3 Bakuchiol 2 & Retinol 1.0 Serum
Cheaper71% match
$17.22
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Niacinamide~4.6–5.6%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Propanediol~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~3.2–3.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Retinol~1.9–2.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Bakuchiol~1.6–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation

More about Bakuchiol
Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract
Ferulic acid~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid
Sodium hyaluronate~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Lactic acid~0.7–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Linoleic acid~0.75–1.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Linolenic acid~0.65–1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Silybum marianum extract~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone

More about Silybum marianum extract
Saccharide isomerate~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate
Phospholipids~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Oenothera biennis flower extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Oenothera biennis flower extract
Adenosine~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract
Sodium pca~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Phytic acid~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), but is mostly used to stabilize product formulations in cosmetics

More about Phytic acid
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycolic acid~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Mandelic acid~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Maltodextrin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Cetyl alcohol~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Pvm/ma decadiene crosspolymer~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pvm/ma decadiene crosspolymer
Behenyl alcohol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate se~0.3–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Arachidyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Octoxynol-9~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Octoxynol-9
Arachidyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Oleth-10~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Oleth-10
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Sodium ascorbate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium ascorbate
Citrus limon peel extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract
Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract, Ferulic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Lactic acid, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Silybum marianum extract, Saccharide isomerate, Phospholipids, Oenothera biennis flower extract, Adenosine, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, Sodium pca, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Phytic acid, Tocopherol, Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid, Maltodextrin, Sodium hydroxide, Cetyl alcohol, Pvm/ma decadiene crosspolymer, Behenyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Arachidyl glucoside, Octoxynol-9, Arachidyl alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Oleth-10, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Sodium ascorbate, Citrus limon peel extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Dr Dennis GrossAdvanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment DeluxeYOUR PRODUCTStandard SeoulFirming Bouncy Boost SerumISNTREEHyper Retinol EX 1.0 SerumMedicubeDeep Reviving Bakuchiol Retinol Serum
Match—77%76%74%
Price$20.00$22.21+$2.21$13.71−$6.29$20.08
Shared key ingredients—8 of 188 of 189 of 18
Key difference—PanthenolCopper Tripeptide-1Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop
  • matches yours
  • differs
  • cheaper

More alternatives: InstaNatural 2.5% Retinol Bakuchiol SerumREMEDY SCIENCE REMEDY for healthy aging

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Product summary

"Dr Dennis Gross - Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Deluxe" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Exfoliation and Anti-blemish

Ingredient callouts

  • A good concentration of Niacinamide (4.60% - 5.60%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • This product contains acids (mandelic acid 0.30% - 0.60%, glycolic acid 0.30% - 0.60% and lactic acid 0.70% - 1.05%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). Lactic acid is particularly good in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin and improving the skin barrier.
  • Bakuchiol in this product (the concentration is about 1.60% - 2.00%). Helps fight photodamage (wrinkles, elasticity loss and pigmentation) and can reduce clogged pores and blemishes. Bakuchiol is a compound extracted from a plant Babchi. It acts similar to retinoids, but with less irritation risk.
  • This product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 1.90% - 2.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
  • Adenosine 0.45% - 0.65%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
  • Another helpful ingredient in this product is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.
  • Humectants (sodium pca 0.40% - 0.60%, saccharide isomerate 0.50% - 0.75%, sodium hyaluronate 1.00% - 1.20% and glycerin 2.40% - 2.90%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dr Dennis Gross" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 85.00$ in the United States, for 43.17CA$ in Canada and for 18.52£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 30 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
Dr Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Deluxe
Dr Dennis GrossAdvanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Wrinkle Treatment Deluxe
Buy on Amazon$20.00 · as of 11/9 06:11 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$20.00 · as of 11/9 06:11 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.