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Dermalogica Pure Night - PowerBright TRx
Dermalogica

Dermalogica Pure Night - PowerBright TRx

Efficacy58/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Oligopeptide-34, Cyclopentasiloxane + 16 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Rich, overnight moisturizer restores skin luminosity and reduces the appearance of brown spots and uneven skin tone with an active blend of skin-brightening agents .”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: dimethicone, dimethiconol.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: oligopeptide-34

Oligopeptide-34HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~7.2–8.8%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.5–3.1%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2–2.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.9%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.55–0.85%
Beta-sitosterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated~0.3–0.6%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.25–0.45%
Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~0.2–0.4%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.1–3.8%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~1.8–2.2%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.3–1.5%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1–1.3%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.3–0.55%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.3–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.65%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
Oligopeptide-34, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate + 2 more
May help
What the product description says
“White Bird of Paradise Seed Extract helps increase skin luminosity while collagen-stimulating Vitamin C and Moth Bean Seed Extract fight signs of ageing.”
Source: Allbeauty

This product contains oligopeptide-34. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Oligopeptide-34Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Rich, overnight moisturizer restores skin luminosity and reduces the appearance of brown spots and uneven skin tone with an active blend of skin-brightening agents .”
Source: Bluemercury

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.4–0.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Rubus idaeus seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil + 2 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (rubus idaeus seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.65–0.95%
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.55–0.85%
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.4–0.6%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Cananga odorata flower oil
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Sodium cocoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholineHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.9%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Advanced LC-Ceramide Barrier Cream
Dr.Reju-All Advanced LC-Ceramide Barrier Cream
Higher efficacy · 100/10078% match
$25.52
Collagen Peptide Day Cream
Olay Collagen Peptide Day Cream
Higher efficacy · 100/10077% match
$23.28
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cyclopentasiloxane~7.2–8.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Methylheptyl isostearate~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methylheptyl isostearate
Butylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Dimethicone~2.5–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetyl alcohol~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Isohexadecane~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.9%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.3–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Cetyl caprylate~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cetyl caprylate
Rubus idaeus seed oil~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
Vigna aconitifolia seed extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vigna aconitifolia seed extract
Strelitzia nicolai seed aril extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Strelitzia nicolai seed aril extract
Oligopeptide-34~0.45–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Oligopeptide-34
Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Niacinamide~0.35–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Beta-sitosterol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated

More about Beta-sitosterol
Zinc glycinate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Zinc glycinate
Decyl glucoside~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Polysilicone-11~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Sodium cocoyl glutamate~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium cocoyl glutamate
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Glyceryl caprylate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Dimethicone crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer
Dimethiconol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Aminomethyl propanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Disodium edta~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylheptyl isostearate, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl alcohol, Isohexadecane, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cetyl caprylate, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, Strelitzia nicolai seed aril extract, Oligopeptide-34, Lactobacillus/pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Niacinamide, Cananga odorata flower oil, Tocopherol, Beta-sitosterol, Zinc glycinate, Decyl glucoside, Polysilicone-11, Sodium cocoyl glutamate, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Glyceryl caprylate, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Aminomethyl propanol, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaPure Night - PowerBright TRxYOUR PRODUCTDr.Reju-AllAdvanced LC-Ceramide Barrier CreamOlayCollagen Peptide Day CreamCetaphilMoisturising Cream
Match—78%77%76%
Price—$25.52$23.28$13.25
Shared key ingredients—3 of 113 of 113 of 11
Key difference—MadecassosidePanthenolPetrolatum
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Wound‐healing Properties of the Oils of Vitis vinifera and Vaccinium macrocarpononlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    BERRY SEEDS: A SOURCE OF SPECIALTY OILS WITH HIGH CONTENT OF BIOACTIVES AND NUTRITIONAL VALUEonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studiesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Dermalogica Pure Night - PowerBright TRx
DermalogicaPure Night - PowerBright TRx
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.