Dermalogica Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant

SPF 50Efficacy60/100IrritancyHigh·1 UV filter
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Works for

0 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection
SPF 50 · 1 UV filter · Partial spectrum
Weak protectionLow filter dose
SPF 50Partial spectrumChemical filtersNo white cast

This product does not offer good protection against UVA rays.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum
UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm
Butyloctyl Salicylate
FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount
Butyloctyl SalicylateUVBA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own~3.2–3.9%
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Reef-safe
No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant”
From product name

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

The biggest anti-aging effect in this product comes from sun protection. Sun damage is the main factor causing early signs of skin aging. We, however, do not recommend using this product as a sunscreen because the protection it offers is not strong enough).

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: ricinus communis seed oil, glycine soja oil.

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.4–0.6%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.3–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.25–0.45%
Carthamus tinctorius oleosomesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.9–6%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~0.95–1.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.9–2.3%
Dibutyl adipate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~1.7–2.1%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.25–0.5%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.35%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.35–0.6%
GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Physalis pubescens fruit juice, Citrus nobilis peel oil + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 24 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Physalis pubescens fruit juice—High~1.2–1.4%est.
Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Citrus paradisi fruit extract—High~0.25–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantifolia oil—High~0.2–0.4%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Citrus species peel extract—High~0.1–0.15%est.
Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownMedium~3.2–3.9%est.
Vp/eicosene copolymerUsed to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skinMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphateA more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinateA stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.4–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes~4.9–6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes
Propanediol~4–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butyloctyl salicylate~3.2–3.9%
UV filterKey activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its own

More about Butyloctyl salicylate
Bentonite~2.4–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemish

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Bentonite
Butylene glycol~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Dibutyl adipate~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Dibutyl adipate
Polysorbate 80~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Physalis pubescens fruit juice~1.2–1.4%
Irritant · high
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~0.95–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate~0.8–1.15%
Formula
Vp/eicosene copolymer~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Used to improve the product adherence to the skin, for example, to pro-long the protective effect of sunscreens. Can be irritating to very sensitive skin

More about Vp/eicosene copolymer
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A more stable but less potent derivative of vitamin C. It can help neautralize free radicals and even out the skin tone if used in high enough concentration (required levels are likely to be much higher than for pure vitamin C, and solid studies are lacking at the moment)

More about Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Glycine soja oil~0.4–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Verbascum thapsus extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus paradisi fruit extract~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Glycerin~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Citrus aurantifolia oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Allantoin~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationReduces rednessExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A stable derivative of pectin and vitamin C. It might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking. Helps create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Beta-carotene~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Bisabolol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Gluconolactone~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Boron nitride~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to absord oil and evenly disperse other ingredients (for example, pigment) in product formulation

More about Boron nitride
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Methylpropanediol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Silica~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Sodium acrylates copolymer~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Limonene~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citrus species peel extract~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Ingredient list view

Water, Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes, Propanediol, Butyloctyl salicylate, Bentonite, Butylene glycol, Dibutyl adipate, Polysorbate 80, Physalis pubescens fruit juice, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, Vp/eicosene copolymer, Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Glycine soja oil, Verbascum thapsus extract, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Ricinus communis seed oil, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Glycerin, Citrus aurantifolia oil, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Allantoin, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Beta-carotene, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Bisabolol, Gluconolactone, Lecithin, Boron nitride, Xanthan gum, Methylpropanediol, Silica, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Limonene, Citrus species peel extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaBiolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin HydratantYOUR PRODUCTAnthonyDay Cream Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30Dr Dennis GrossSkincare All Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense SPF30DecreeDay Shield SPF 30
Match—55%53%53%
Price$95.00$34.00−$61.00$54.73−$40.27$93.00−$2.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 115 of 114 of 11
Key difference—AvobenzoneFerulic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Low Medium
SPFSPF 50SPF 30SPF 30SPF 30
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Dermalogica - Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant" does not provide enough UVA protection. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage the skin, leading to early signs of aging and pigmentation issues.

It also works as a moisturizer, so you do not have to use an additional hydrating product.

Sunscreen filters

This sunscreen uses so-called "chemical", or organic UV filters (organic simply means that their molecules contain atoms of carbon). These filters typically give good sun protection and rarely leave a white cast, but they can be irritating for sensitive skin. The UV filters in this sunscreen are: butyloctyl salicylate 3.20% - 3.90%.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this product to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermalogica" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 95.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 31 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermalogica Biolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant
DermalogicaBiolumin-C Heat Aging Protector SPF 50 Soin Hydratant

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