Dermalogica Acne Biotic Moisturizer

Dermalogica Acne Biotic Moisturizer

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Lightweight moisturizer with a prebiotic blend hydrates and supports skin's microbiome, helping aging skin look healthier, now and in the future.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: erythritol, glutamic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, caprylyl glycol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

ErythritolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.9–2.3%
Hydrolyzed jojoba estersKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.2%
InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~1.4–1.8%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–4.3%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.55–0.8%
Ethylhexyl olivateKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–2.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~9–11%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~2.5–3.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Helps prevent future breakouts and visibly promotes healthy skin aging.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–4.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%
Anti-blemish
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Daily gel targets and helps prevent breakouts.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide, salicylic acid. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–4.3%
Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)0.5%
InulinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~1.4–1.8%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)0.5%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide, salicylic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–4.3%
Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia oil, Lavandula hybrida oil + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High0.5%
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~1.1–1.3%est.
Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.9–1.1%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.75–1.1%est.
Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.75–1.1%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.5–0.8%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Salicylic acid0.5%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~9–11%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Propanediol~5.2–6.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Niacinamide~3.5–4.3%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Octyldodecanol~2.5–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Ethylhexyl olivate~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl olivate
Glycerin~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Erythritol~1.6–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Erythritol
Inulin~1.4–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin
Cetearyl olivate~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Lavandula angustifolia oil~1.1–1.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Lavandula hybrida oil~0.9–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil
Citrus limon peel oil~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Salvia sclarea oil~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · high
Hydrolyzed jojoba esters~0.95–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba esters
Morinda citrifolia fruit extract~0.7–1%
Formula
Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Magnolia officinalis bark extract~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Piper nigrum seed extract~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Xylitol~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Squalane~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Caprylyl glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Lecithin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Glutamic acid~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Polyquaternium-80~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyquaternium-80
Didecyldimonium chloride~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Didecyldimonium chloride
Methylpropanediol~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Sorbitan olivate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Caprylic acid~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Caprylic acid
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Salicylic acid, Water, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl olivate, Glycerin, Erythritol, Inulin, Cetearyl olivate, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Lavandula hybrida oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Salvia sclarea oil, Hydrolyzed jojoba esters, Morinda citrifolia fruit extract, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Piper nigrum seed extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Tocopherol, Xylitol, Squalane, Caprylyl glycol, Lecithin, Glutamic acid, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium chloride, Methylpropanediol, Sorbitan olivate, Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, Citric acid, Sodium hydroxide, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Caprylic acid, Linalool, Limonene

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Bluemercury
$77.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
DermalogicaAcne Biotic MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCTBiodermaHydrabio Gel-CremeFacetheorySUPERGEL OIL-FREE MOISTURISER M3 FOR OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKINMesoesteticMelan Tran Daily Depigmenting Gel Cream
Match—89%87%86%
Price$77.00$17.50−$59.50$18.99−$58.01$59.80−$17.20
Shared key ingredients—4 of 103 of 103 of 10
Key difference—Peg/Ppg-18/18 DimethiconeLactic AcidLactic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

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Dermalogica Acne Biotic Moisturizer
DermalogicaAcne Biotic Moisturizer

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