Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Dermadoctor - Poetry in Lotion Intensive 1% Retinol" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (arginine, cyclomethicone, glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer and sodium hyaluronate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide 2, phytosphingosine, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, cyclomethicone and arginine in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.40% - 0.60%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
- Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 2 0.30% - 0.55% and phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
About the brand
According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Dermadoctor" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.
Price
The product retails for 99.45A$ in Australia and from 75.00$ up to 78.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Aging Skin Fine Lines and Wrinkles , Loss of Firmness Application Area Decollete , Face , Neck Ideal for these Concerns Acne , Aging Skin , Hyperpigmentation , Large Pores , Milia , Redness , Sun Damage Hyperpigmentation Melasma Preferences Certified Cruelty-Free , Clean , Fragrance-Free Skin Care Skin Care Treatments Skin Care Treatments Wrinkle Cream Wellness | External Factors UV Ray Protectors and Treatments
Source: Dermstore
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: lysine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be irritating
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
Used as a fragrance
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Aging Skin Fine Lines and Wrinkles , Loss of Firmness Application Area Decollete , Face , Neck Ideal for these Concerns Acne , Aging Skin , Hyperpigmentation , Large Pores , Milia , Redness , Sun Damage Hyperpigmentation Melasma Preferences Certified Cruelty-Free , Clean , Fragrance-Free Skin Care Skin Care Treatments Skin Care Treatments Wrinkle Cream Wellness | External Factors UV Ray Protectors and Treatments
Source: Dermstore
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
This patent-pending formulation contains 1% microencapsulated retinol blended with a calming and hydrating complex to help you fall in love with retinol all over again.
Source: SkincareRX
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, cyclomethicone.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 2, phytosphingosine
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
Might be helpful against blemishes, work as an anti-oxidant, reduce inflammation and improve skin's ability to hold on to moisture, but more research is needed to confirm its effectiveness when applied topically to human skin
Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Dermadoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive 1% Retinol | Current | $75.00 | |
Replenix Smoothing body lotion | 73% | $-1.00 | |
KLAVUU Rejuve Pearlsation Multi Pearl Peptide Eye Cream | 68% | $20.30 | |
 No7 Pure Retinol Night Repair Cream | 65% | $34.95 | |
 StriVectin Advanced Retinol Eye Cream | 65% | $35.00 | |
 CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream | 65% | $15.44 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Stearic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Cyclomethicone, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Stearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitol, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene glycol, Allyl methacrylates crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Butylene glycol, Peg-60 almond glycerides, Carbomer, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Oleanolic acid, Dimethicone, Phytosphingosine, Caffeine, Bisabolol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tea-carbomer, Sodium hyaluronate, Leontopodium alpinum extract, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, Boswellia serrata extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Ceramide 2, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Panax ginseng root extract, Avena sativa kernel extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Bht, Hypericum perforatum leaf extract, Malva sylvestris flower extract, Salvia officinalis leaf extract, Sambucus nigra flower extract, Spiraea ulmaria flower extract, Centella asiatica extract, Leucine, Valine, Tyrosine, Arginine, Lysine
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Safety Assessment of Cross-Linked Alkyl Acrylates as Used in Cosmetics
- Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, an inhibitor of lipoxygenase, also inhibits cytochrome P-450-mediated monooxygenase activity in rat epidermal and hepatic microsomes.
- Antimutagenic and antitumorigenic activities of nordihydroguaiaretic acid
- Estrogenic activity of an antioxidant, nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA)
- Molecular mechanisms and clinical applications of nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA) and its derivatives: An update
- Effectiveness of the formulation that containing oleanolic acid 3% on inhibition of 5-α reductase activity on skin of patients with acne
- The effect of ursolic and oleanolic acids on human skin fibroblast cells
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent model
- Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Ginseng in Dermatology: A Review
- Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Allergic contact dermatitis caused by Salvia officinalis extract
- The antioxidant properties of alcoholic extracts from Sambucus nigra L. (antioxidant properties of extracts)
- Inhibition of Proinflammatory Activities of Major Periodontal Pathogens by Aqueous Extracts From Elder Flower (Sambucus nigra)
- Evaluation of the in vitro effect of Boldo and Meadowsweet plant extracts on the expression of antimicrobial peptides and inflammatory markers in canine keratinocytes
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin