Derm Institute

Derm Institute Youth Alchemy Soft Cream

Name: Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Soft Cream
Brand: Derm Institute

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Ceramide ap, Palmitoyl oligopeptide + 36 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“nourishing face cream”

Source: SpaceNK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17, ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, pentapeptide-18, phytosphingosine

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%

Glycine soja sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.3–0.5%

Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.3–0.5%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.8–1.2%

Pentapeptide-18HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.25–0.45%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.55%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.45%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–6.9%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.5%

Acetyl tetrapeptide-17HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.55%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.4%

Coenochloris signiensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%

Crithmum maritimum extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.4%

Hydrolyzed vegetable proteinKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.35%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~1.5–1.9%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.5–0.8%

Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~2–2.4%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~2.9–3.5%

Hydrolyzed corn starch· HumectantEffect: LowHelps improve the product texture~0.25–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.7–2%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.2–0.35%

Camellia oleifera seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~0.25–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.5%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Anti-aging

Retinol, Acetyl tetrapeptide-17 + 10 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“minimise the visible signs of ageing”

Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl tetrapeptide-17, adenosine triphosphate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, pentapeptide-18.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%

Acetyl tetrapeptide-17Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Pentapeptide-18Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.8–1.2%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Adenosine triphosphateKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.4%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.25–0.45%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.3–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Ubiquinone + 12 more

Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (retinol, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%

Sambucus nigra fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

Pyridoxine hclEffect: LowMight help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%

Coenochloris signiensis extractEffect: LowAn algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Crithmum maritimum extractEffect: LowAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.4%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~0.3–0.5%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

ErgothioneineUnder-dosedEffect: HighCan help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking~0.2–0.35%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.3%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%

Camellia oleifera seed oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~0.25–0.5%

Beta vulgaris root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Allantoin

Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Niacinamide

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Phytosphingosine + 2 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium amara flower water, Retinol + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rhododendron ferrugineum extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.

Sambucus nigra fruit extractA plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower waterA citrus plant essential oil (in a less concentrated format). Used as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Oleyl alcoholUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–6.9%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.2–1.5%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.5–0.8%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Beta vulgaris root extractA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its colorMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Camellia oleifera seed oilAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.

Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Pyridoxine hclMight help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

GoldA colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skinMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

5 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.25–0.5%est.

Oleyl alcoholUsed as a fragrance3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Crithmum maritimum extractAn algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.25–0.4%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.4–2.9%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.45%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–6.9%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Glycerin~4–4.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Glyceryl stearate citrate~2.9–3.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

Cetearyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Glyceryl caprylate~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate

Butylene glycol~1.7–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Isononyl isononanoate~1.5–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~1.2–1.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.8–1.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Polyglyceryl-3 pca~0.7–1.05%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyglyceryl-3 pca

Methyl glucose isostearate~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Methyl glucose isostearate

Pentylene glycol~0.5–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Oenothera biennis leaf cell extract~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Oenothera biennis leaf cell extract

Nymphaea caerulea leaf cell extract~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Nymphaea caerulea leaf cell extract

Commiphora myrrha leaf cell extract~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Commiphora myrrha leaf cell extract

Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract

Lecithin~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Rhododendron ferrugineum extract~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rhododendron ferrugineum extract

Vitis vinifera fruit cell extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vitis vinifera fruit cell extract

Palmitoyl oligopeptide~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl oligopeptide

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Davilla rugosa leaf extract~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Davilla rugosa leaf extract

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Niacinamide~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Bacopa monnieri extract~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bacopa monnieri extract

Ergothioneine~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking

More about Ergothioneine

Acetyl tyrosine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Acetyl tyrosine

Proline~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Hydrolyzed vegetable protein~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Hydrolyzed vegetable protein

Adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

More about Adenosine triphosphate

Sambucus nigra fruit extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that may contain a small amount of essential oils. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Sambucus nigra fruit extract

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Carbomer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Mica~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Tin oxide~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide

Capryloyl heptapeptide-12~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Capryloyl heptapeptide-12

Colloidal gold~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal gold

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

Acetyl tetrapeptide-17~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-17

Colloidal platinum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal platinum

Citrus aurantium amara flower water~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A citrus plant essential oil (in a less concentrated format). Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower water

Ceramide np~0.3–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Ceramide ap~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Ceramide eop~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate

Limnanthes alba seed oil~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil

Coenochloris signiensis extract~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and neutralize free radicals

More about Coenochloris signiensis extract

Maltodextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Hydrolyzed corn starch~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps improve the product texture

More about Hydrolyzed corn starch

Beta vulgaris root extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color

More about Beta vulgaris root extract

Pentapeptide-18~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Pentapeptide-18

Panthenol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Oleyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Used as a fragrance

More about Oleyl alcohol

Dioscorea villosa root extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dioscorea villosa root extract

Glycine soja sterols~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Glycine soja sterols

Squalane~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ubiquinone~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Camellia oleifera seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish

More about Camellia oleifera seed oil

C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters

Crithmum maritimum extract~0.25–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Crithmum maritimum extract

Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.45%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Retinol~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Acacia senegal gum~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum

Propylene glycol alginate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Propylene glycol alginate

Allantoin~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Pyridoxine hcl~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Pyridoxine hcl

Bisabolol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Potassium hydroxide~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide

Iron oxides~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Parfum~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Gold~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A colorant. Does not have any proven benefits in skin

More about Gold

Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl caprylate, Butylene glycol, Isononyl isononanoate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Polyglyceryl-3 pca, Methyl glucose isostearate, Pentylene glycol, Oenothera biennis leaf cell extract, Nymphaea caerulea leaf cell extract, Commiphora myrrha leaf cell extract, Malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, Lecithin, Rhododendron ferrugineum extract, Vitis vinifera fruit cell extract, Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Davilla rugosa leaf extract, Xanthan gum, Niacinamide, Bacopa monnieri extract, Ergothioneine, Acetyl tyrosine, Proline, Hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Adenosine triphosphate, Sambucus nigra fruit extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Carbomer, Mica, Titanium dioxide, Tin oxide, Capryloyl heptapeptide-12, Colloidal gold, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acetyl tetrapeptide-17, Colloidal platinum, Citrus aurantium amara flower water, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Ceramide eop, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Coenochloris signiensis extract, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed corn starch, Beta vulgaris root extract, Pentapeptide-18, Panthenol, Oleyl alcohol, Dioscorea villosa root extract, Glycine soja sterols, Squalane, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia oleifera seed oil, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Crithmum maritimum extract, Glycine soja oil, Retinol, Tocopherol, Acacia senegal gum, Propylene glycol alginate, Allantoin, Pyridoxine hcl, Bisabolol, Potassium hydroxide, Iron oxides, Sodium hyaluronate, Parfum, Gold

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Derm InstituteYouth Alchemy Soft CreamYOUR PRODUCT	skintificRetinol Skin Renewal Moisturizer Acne & Anti-Aging Night Cream	AHCEye Cream For Face	Centellian24Madeca Cream Time Reverse
Match	—	76%	75%	72%
Price	$490.00	—	$14.75−$475.25	$12.36−$477.64
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 29	13 of 29	11 of 29
Key difference	—	Ceramide As	Copper Tripeptide-1	Madecassoside
Irritancy	High	Medium	High	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Soft Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Derm Institute - Youth Alchemy Soft Cream ticks this box. Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol and hydrolyzed corn starch in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, phytosphingosine and cholesterol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.40%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide eop 0.25% - 0.50%, ceramide ap 0.25% - 0.45% and ceramide np 0.30% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
This moistruizer also contains peptides (pentapeptide-18 0.25% - 0.45%, acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.25% - 0.45%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.30% - 0.60% and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.80% - 1.20%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 450.00$ up to 490.00$ in the United States and from 405.00£ up to 575.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
A comparison of the relative antioxidant potency of L‐ergothioneine and idebenoneonlinelibrary.wiley.com
5
l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Studymdpi.com
6
Assessment report on Sambucus nigra L., fructusema.europa.eu
7
SKIN PROTECTION AGAINST SOLAR UV RADIATION BY NATURAL PLANT PRODUCTS: EXTRACTS FROM ELDER FRUIT (SAMBUCUS NIGRA L.)researchgate.net
8
Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
13
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
14
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
19
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
20
α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammationresearchgate.net
21
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net

Derm InstituteYouth Alchemy Soft Cream

Buy at SpaceNK US$490.00 Amazon

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Buy at SpaceNK US$490.00 Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.