Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
Based on the ingredient list, "Ddf - Advanced Firming Cream with Age Reverse Complex" can work well for skin moisturization. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (borago officinalis seed oil, oenothera biennis oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone and dimethiconol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 4.10% - 5.00%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
- This moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl propionate 0.40% - 0.65%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.35% - 0.65%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.65% - 0.95%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Experience the doctor's dermatologic advanced anti-aging formula for a more youthful appearance while you sleep.
Source: Ulta
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, retinyl propionate.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl propionate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Advanced Firming Cream with Age Reverse Complex
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, panthenol
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Might be helpful in restoring skin barrier function and calm down inflammation in skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Anti-blemish
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl propionate
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Isohexadecane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Polyethylene, Dimethicone, Isopropyl isostearate, Borago officinalis seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Panthenol, Curcuma longa root extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Retinyl propionate, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Copper gluconate, Magnesium aspartate, Zinc gluconate, Sodium hyaluronate, Allantoin, Butylene glycol, Polyacrylamide, Stearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, Titanium dioxide, Benzyl alcohol, Dimethiconol, Dmdm hydantoin, Peg-100 stearate, Laureth-7, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, Phenoxyethanol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
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- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oil
- Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in children
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- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Retinol and retinyl esters: biochemistry and physiology
- A clinicopathological study of the effects of topical retinyl propionate cream in skin photoageing
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Magnesium ions inhibit the antigen-presenting function of human epidermal Langerhans cells in vivo and in vitro. Involvement of ATPase, HLA-DR, B7 molecules, and cytokines
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate as Used in Cosmetics