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cosdebahaofficial Azelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream
cosdebahaofficial

cosdebahaofficial Azelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
16 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“It reduces acne and hyperpigmentation while calming and balancing the skin.”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, madecassoside, panthenol

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.35–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.2–3.2%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.6%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.45%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.1–0.4%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.4–2.1%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.2–1.8%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~3.5–5.2%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.75%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.25%
Evens skin tone
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Cos De BAHA AZ20 Facial Cream targets acne, uneven skin tone, and inflammation with a high concentration of azelaic acid.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: azelaic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~5.4–8%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.2–0.75%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.25%
Anti-blemish
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Cos De BAHA AZ20 Facial Cream targets acne, uneven skin tone, and inflammation with a high concentration of azelaic acid.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Azelaic acidHeroEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~5.4–8%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.7%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.75%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals~5.4–8%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%
Sambucus nigra flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.25%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.75%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains madecassoside. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.15–0.6%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.05–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 7 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3.5–5.2%est.
Sambucus nigra flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.2–3.2%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.5–1.1%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.75%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.4–2.1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Azelaic acid~5.4–8%
Hero · Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneExfoliation

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

More about Azelaic acid
Propylene glycol~3.5–5.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Sodium hydroxide~2.8–4.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.2–3.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
1,2-hexanediol~0.5–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Cetearyl alcohol~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Dimethicone~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetearyl olivate~0.6–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Betaine~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Dimethyl sulfone~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Dimethyl sulfone
Panthenol~0.3–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Allantoin~0.15–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Madecassoside~0.15–0.6%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ceramide np~0.1–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Polysorbate 60~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Sambucus nigra flower extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Sambucus nigra flower extract
Momordica charantia fruit extract~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Momordica charantia fruit extract
Leontopodium alpinum extract~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leontopodium alpinum extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Azelaic acid, Propylene glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Betaine, Dimethyl sulfone, Panthenol, Allantoin, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Centella asiatica extract, Madecassoside, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Tocopherol, Ceramide np, Polysorbate 60, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Sambucus nigra flower extract, Momordica charantia fruit extract, Leontopodium alpinum extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
cosdebahaofficialAzelaic Acid 20% Facial CreamYOUR PRODUCTDermaticaClarifying Azelaic Acid 15% CreamNIP+FABCeramide Fix Overnight Cream 12%BootsAzelaic Acid Cream
Match—70%69%67%
Price—$26.43$25.38$8.73
Shared key ingredients—3 of 134 of 133 of 13
Key difference—Ceramide EopNiacinamideBeta-Glucan
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"cosdebahaofficial - Azelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (panthenol, betaine, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and propylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.10% - 0.45%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.15% - 0.60% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
  • Azelaic Acid (5.40% - 8.00%). This active can reduce hyperpigmentation. It also works helps against acne and clogged pores. Please note that Azelaic Acid is most effective against acne in concentrations between 10% and 20%.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 34 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  6. 6
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
cosdebahaofficial Azelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream
cosdebahaofficialAzelaic Acid 20% Facial Cream
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