Pos	Ingredient Name	Description
1	water / aqua / eau	Plain old water
2	isododecane	An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture
3	dimethicone	A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
4	cyclopentasiloxane	A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absord oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
5	polysilicone-11	A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
6	butylene glycol	Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
7	peg-10 dimethicone	A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss
8	morus nigra (mulberry) root extract	A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and have some skin-lightening effect, but good evidence is missing
9	citrus grandis (grapefruit) peel extract	An aromatic irritating plant extract that can cause photosensitivity in skin
10	hordeum vulgare (barley) extract / extrait d'orge	A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. Avoid if you are sensitive to gluten
11	triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract	Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance
12	cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract	Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect
13	gentiana lutea (gentian) root extract	A plant extract that can help strengthen the skin barrier function and improve skin moisture levels
14	hydrolyzed rice bran extract	A plant extract that might contain an active compound orthosilicic acid that could be helpful to regulate the level of pigment in skin, but solid research is lacking
15	hydrolyzed rice protein	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties
16	scutellaria baicalensis root extract	A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties
17	whey protein / lactis protein / protine du petit-lait	A protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin
18	cladosiphon okamuranus extract
19	vitis vinifera (grape) fruit extract	A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds
20	vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract	A plant extract that contains resveratrol and other anti-oxidant compounds that can help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation in skin and even out its tone. Can be also used to stabilize the product formulation
21	plankton extract	Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
22	acetyl hexapeptide-8	A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
23	palmitoyl hexapeptide-12	A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
24	peg-6	Helps to dissolve other ingredients and attract water to the upper layer of the skin
25	sigesbeckia orientalis (st. paul's wort) extract	A plant extract that can contain an anti-inflammatory compound
26	algae extract	Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
27	caffeine	Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes
28	glycyrrhetinic acid	Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
29	acrylamide	Used to stabilize formulations and increase water resistance of sunscreen ingredients. In cosmetics, the polymer form of this compound is used. The polymer's molecules cannot penetrate the skin making the compound safe for use in skin care as long as the monomer residue (which, unlike polyacrylamide, is toxic) in the final product is below 0.2%. It can be irritating for skin
30	sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
31	acetyl glucosamine	An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
32	cholesterol	An emollient that is naturally found in skin
33	oryza sativa (rice) bran extract	Used to thicken the product consistency
34	squalane	An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
35	lecithin	Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
36	helianthus annuus (sunflower) seedcake	Used to thicken the product consistency
37	glycine soja (soybean) protein	A plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking
38	micrococcus lysate	Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin
39	hydrolyzed prunus domestica	A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties
40	ergothioneine	Can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Preliminary studies show that it can be more effective than coenzyme Q10 but studies on effective concentration for topical applications are lacking
41	yeast extract / faex / extrait de levure	Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin
42	isohexadecane	Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
43	ascorbyl glucoside	A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
44	polysorbate 20	Helps oil and water mix together
45	glycerin	One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
46	caprylyl glycol	Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
47	ethylhexylglycerin	A preservative
48	propylene glycol dicaprate	An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin
49	tocopheryl acetate	A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
50	tromethamine	Helps adjust pH in products
51	polysorbate 80	Helps water and oil mix together
52	glyceryl polymethacrylate	Used to create a nice product texture
53	sodium hyaluronate	One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
54	dimethoxytolyl propylresorcinol	Can help reduce hyperpigmentation and lighten skin, but additional research is needed to test its effectiveness on human skin
55	dextrin	A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
56	ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer	Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
57	peg-8	Used to create a nice product consistency
58	silica	Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin
59	sodium rna	Is claimed to have anti-aging properties, but research about its effect in topical application is missing
60	disodium edta	Stabilizes the product formulation
61	phenoxyethanol	A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
62	mica	Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light
63	titanium dioxide (ci 77891	Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

maria

Ingredient	Irritancy	Skin benefit
morus nigra root extract
citrus grandis peel extract
hordeum vulgare extract

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Scientific Sources

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
sigesbeckia orientalis extract	HIGH
glycyrrhetinic acid	HIGH
yeast extract	MEDIUM

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
glycyrrhetinic acid	HIGH
vitis vinifera seed extract	HIGH
ergothioneine	HIGH