Charlotte Tilbury Mini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide

Charlotte Tilbury Mini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide

Efficacy50/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Mini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glyceryl glucoside.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl tetrapeptide-11HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.3%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-9HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.2%
Glyceryl glucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer~1–1.5%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–1.15%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–6.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.8–4.2%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–3.2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.7–5.6%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.75%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.5–2.2%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.85–1.25%
Camellia oleifera seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finish~0.35–0.85%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.35–0.8%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“, Biopeptide Complex Visibly improves skin tone and texture.”
Source: Sephora CA

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.85–1.25%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl tetrapeptide-9. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl tetrapeptide-11Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.3%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.2%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.55%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.7–5.6%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.85–1.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.1–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.4–0.95%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Backhousia citriodora leaf extract, Plumeria rubra flower extract
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Backhousia citriodora leaf extractA plant extract used mostly as a fragrance. Can have some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extractA berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Plumeria rubra flower extractUsed to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.8–4.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.25%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Camellia oleifera seed oilAn emollient that does not leave a greasy finishMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.1–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.7–5.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.5–6.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.7–5.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.8–4.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Squalane~2.1–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Propanediol~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Pentylene glycol~1.5–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Glyceryl glucoside~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer

More about Glyceryl glucoside
Niacinamide~0.85–1.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Mannitol~0.5–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Carbomer~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Camellia oleifera seed oil~0.35–0.85%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish

More about Camellia oleifera seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.35–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sodium gluconate~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Tocopherol~0.15–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Beta-glucan~0.15–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Backhousia citriodora leaf extract~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract used mostly as a fragrance. Can have some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties

More about Backhousia citriodora leaf extract
Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A berry extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract
Plumeria rubra flower extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritating

More about Plumeria rubra flower extract
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Acetyl tetrapeptide-11~0.1–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-11
Citric acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Acetyl tetrapeptide-9~0.05–0.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-9
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Squalane, Propanediol, Pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Glyceryl glucoside, Niacinamide, Mannitol, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Carbomer, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Caprylyl glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sodium gluconate, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Beta-glucan, Sodium hyaluronate, Backhousia citriodora leaf extract, Vaccinium macrocarpon fruit extract, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Ascorbyl palmitate, Acetyl tetrapeptide-11, Citric acid, Acetyl tetrapeptide-9, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Charlotte TilburyMini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with NiacinimideYOUR PRODUCTYouth To The PeoplePolypeptide-121 Future CreamDermaticaSoothing Centella Gel MoisturiserAtwaterHeavy Armor Facial Moisturizer
Match—75%75%73%
Price$41.00$64.00+$23.00$17.12−$23.88$35.00−$6.00
Shared key ingredients—4 of 145 of 148 of 14
Key difference—Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2PanthenolPanthenol
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Charlotte Tilbury - Mini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide" works well for improving skin hydration This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin, glyceryl glucoside, mannitol, sodium hyaluronate and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-9 0.05% - 0.20% and acetyl tetrapeptide-11 0.10% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, rosehip oil and camellia oleifera seed oil

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Charlotte Tilbury" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 41.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

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Charlotte Tilbury Mini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide
Charlotte TilburyMini Magic Water Cream Gel Moisturizer with Niacinimide

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