Charlotte Tilbury

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream Refillable

Name: Charlotte Tilbury - Magic Eye Rescue Cream Refillable
Brand: Charlotte Tilbury

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Re-energise and reinvigorate the area where signs of ageing often first occur – the delicate skin under the eye – with the Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue, a skincare treatment that delivers younger-looking results over time by reducing the appearance of wrinkles and dark circles.”

Source: SpaceNK EU

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%

Glycine soja proteinEffect: LowA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–1.6%

Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureEffect: LowHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.3–0.5%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.15–0.3%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.15%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.5%

Moisturizing

29 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Saccharide isomerase hydrates while also brightening and firming.”

Source: SpaceNK EU

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, saccharide isomerate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.5–1.8%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.25–0.5%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.6%

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.5%

Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.3–0.55%

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.45–0.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.8–7.1%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–1.6%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.25–0.5%

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.4–0.65%

Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far~0.3–0.5%

Glycine soja proteinKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.1–2.5%

Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.3–0.6%

Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4.3–5.3%

Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.95–1.15%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.1%

C12-16 alcohols· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture~0.45–0.65%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.6–0.9%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.35–0.65%

Olus oil· EmollientEffect: LowAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3%

Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.6%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.4%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed rice proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.2–0.4%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycine soja protein.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Daphne odora callus extract, Retinol + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Daphne odora callus extract—High~0.25–0.45%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Plumeria rubra flower extractUsed to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.8–7.1%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.9–3.6%est.

Peg-7 glyceryl cocoateHelps oils and water mix together and works as a cleansing agentMedium~1.7–2.1%est.

Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.95–1.15%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.5–0.7%est.

Olive oil peg-7 estersHelps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agentMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

C12-16 alcoholsHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's textureMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.3–1.6%est.

Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.8–7.1%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Butylene glycol~4.3–5.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Polysorbate 60~2.9–3.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Olus oil~2.5–3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olus oil

Vegetable oil~2.1–2.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil

Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate~1.7–2.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oils and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent

More about Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate

Glycerin~1.5–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.3–1.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Peg-8~0.95–1.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8

Ethylhexyl stearate~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Dicaprylyl ether~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Sorbitan stearate~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.5–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Olive oil peg-7 esters~0.5–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent

More about Olive oil peg-7 esters

Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Saccharide isomerate~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

C12-16 alcohols~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture

More about C12-16 alcohols

Cera alba~0.45–0.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba

Beeswax~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Beeswax

Glyceryl stearate~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Hydrogenated castor oil~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil

Squalane~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Titanium dioxide~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ci 77891~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 77891

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein

Palmitic acid~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid

Xanthan gum~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Chondrus crispus extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract

Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan isostearate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Glycine soja protein~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking

More about Glycine soja protein

Superoxide dismutase~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase

Citric acid~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Iron oxides~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Ci 77492~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant. Usually well-tolerated

More about Ci 77492

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Sodium pca~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Iron oxides~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Ci 77491~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Daphne odora callus extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Daphne odora callus extract

Sodium dextran sulfate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dextran sulfate

Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far

More about Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture

Aluminum hydroxide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)

More about Aluminum hydroxide

Retinol~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin toneIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Plumeria rubra flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used to add a nice smell to the product. Can be irritating

More about Plumeria rubra flower extract

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Tocopheryl acetate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Ascorbic acid~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Lecithin~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Retinyl palmitate~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butylene glycol, Polysorbate 60, Olus oil, Vegetable oil, Peg-7 glyceryl cocoate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Peg-8, Ethylhexyl stearate, Dicaprylyl ether, Sorbitan stearate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Olive oil peg-7 esters, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharide isomerate, C12-16 alcohols, Cera alba, Beeswax, Glyceryl stearate, Hydrogenated castor oil, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Hydrogenated lecithin, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Palmitic acid, Xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus extract, Disodium edta, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan isostearate, Sodium hydroxide, Glycine soja protein, Superoxide dismutase, Citric acid, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Tocopherol, Sodium citrate, Iron oxides, Ci 77492, Sodium benzoate, Sodium pca, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Ascorbyl palmitate, Daphne odora callus extract, Sodium dextran sulfate, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Aluminum hydroxide, Retinol, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Borago officinalis seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbic acid, Lecithin, Potassium sorbate, Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Charlotte TilburyMagic Eye Rescue Cream RefillableYOUR PRODUCT	First Aid BeautySkin Lab Retinol Eye Cream	BootsRetinol Eye Cream	Peter Thomas RothRetinol Fusion PM Eye Cream
Match	—	86%	85%	84%
Price	$59.00	$30.80−$28.20	$10.18−$48.82	$46.00−$13.00
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 16	4 of 16	9 of 16
Key difference	—	Linoleic Acid	Dimethicone	Vitamin C
Irritancy	High	High	Medium	High
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	Contains drying alcohol
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 32 studies and safety reviews.

1
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Efficacy of barrier creams in comparison to skin care products in dental laboratory technicians--a controlled trialncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Protection Against Free Radicals (UVB Irradiation) of a Water-Soluble Enzymatic Extract from Rice Bran. Study Using Human Keratinocyte Monolayer and Reconstructed Human Epidermis link.springer.com
7
Amended final report on the safety assessment of Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Oil, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Oil, Rice Bran Acid,Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Wax, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Wax, Oryza Sativa (rice)Bran Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Powder, Oryza Sativa (rice) Starch, Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, and Hydrolyzed Rice Proteinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
10
Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).alliedacademies.org
15
Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledgefrontiersin.org
17
Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreenonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorderslink.springer.com
19
Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activityresearchgate.net
20
Skin protective effects of RM191A, a novel superoxide dismutase mimeticbiorxiv.org
21
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
23
Safety Assessment of Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safetyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
25
Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
28
Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
30
Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
31
A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative propertiessciencedirect.com
32
New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interactionmorressier.com

Charlotte TilburyMagic Eye Rescue Cream Refillable

Buy at SpaceNK US$65.00 $59.00as of 10/16 00:12 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at SpaceNK US$65.00 $59.00as of 10/16 00:12 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.