Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
"Charlotte Tilbury - Charlotte's Magic Cream - Lunar New Year Edition" has a good moisturizing formula. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, dimethicone, dimethiconol and helianthus annuus seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.15% - 0.30%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
- This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.50%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Charlotte's Magic Cream floods the skin with moisture, making it appear plumper and smoother right away—and more youthful over time.
Source: Sephora CA
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, dimethiconol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency
An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a nice product consistency
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Might have some moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Can be added to products to create a nice smell.
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Charlotte's Magic Cream floods the skin with moisture, making it appear plumper and smoother right away—and more youthful over time.
Source: Sephora CA
This product contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Has been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so far
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Moisturizes the outer layers of skin for a softer, smoother, plumper look and feel. . Vitamins C and E. Visibly brighten and even skin tone while fighting the appearance of dullness.
Source: Sephora CA
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 58/100.
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glyceryl stearate se, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Olus oil, Vegetable oil, Isononyl isononanoate, Cetyl alcohol, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Polyester-7, Phenoxyethanol, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Steareth-21, Avena sativa kernel extract, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl glycol, Xanthan gum, Hydrolyzed viola tricolor extract, Allantoin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Rosa damascena extract, Sodium hydroxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Michelia alba leaf oil, Sodium lactate, Coco-glucoside, Peg-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Ascorbyl palmitate, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Response
- Allergen of the Year—Alkyl Glucoside
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts