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Charles + Lee Oil Free Moisturiser
Charles + Lee

Charles + Lee Oil Free Moisturiser

Efficacy25/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
12 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Oil Free Moisturiser”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~0.6–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.7–2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1–1.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.3%
Cetyl estersKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.45–0.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.6–4.4%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.8–3.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.35–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.55–0.8%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Vitamin E - helps reduce the appearance of sun damage, scars and pigmentation and prevent the signs of ageing”
Source: Lookfantastic Australia

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.55–0.8%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Vitamin E - helps reduce the appearance of sun damage, scars and pigmentation and prevent the signs of ageing”
Source: Lookfantastic Australia

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Benzophenone-3, Parfum + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 28 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateOctinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritatingHigh~3.1–3.8%est.
Benzophenone-3Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorptionHigh~2–2.4%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehydeA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Hexyl cinnamalA fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
OctocryleneA weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreenMedium~2.5–3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.7–2%est.
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethaneAvobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.Medium~1.7–2%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.6–0.85%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.55–0.8%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.4–0.65%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.6–4.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~3.6–4.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.8–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating

More about Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
Octocrylene~2.5–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

A weak sunscreen that protects against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB) and is somewhat effective against the UVA rays. It is quite stable and can help stabilize other, more vulnerable, sunscreen ingredients like Avobenzone. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Octocrylene
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.7–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Benzophenone-3~2–2.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption

More about Benzophenone-3
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane~1.7–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Sun protection

Avobenzone. An organic, or so-called "chemical" UV filter. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Needs to be combined with other filters in a formulation to be stable.

More about Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Dimethicone~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Cetyl esters~0.7–1.05%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin

More about Cetyl esters
Vitis vinifera seed oil~0.6–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Olea europaea fruit oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Carrageenan~0.4–0.65%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Lactic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Panthenol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Parfum~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Sodium citrate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Benzyl alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Bht~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Isobutyl acetate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Isobutyl acetate
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Coumarin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde
Hexyl cinnamal~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with jasmine smell. A likely irritant

More about Hexyl cinnamal
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Linalool~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Benzophenone-3, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dimethicone, Cetyl esters, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Olea europaea fruit oil, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Carrageenan, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Xanthan gum, Lactic acid, Panthenol, Tocopheryl acetate, Parfum, Sodium citrate, Citric acid, Disodium edta, Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Bht, Alcohol, Isobutyl acetate, Benzyl salicylate, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Hexyl cinnamal, Limonene, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Charles + LeeOil Free MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTJanuary LabsRetexturizing Night Cream
Match—51%
Price$33.05$86.00+$52.95
Shared key ingredients—6 of 11
Key difference—Niacinamide
Irritancy High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol —
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dermatological and environmental toxicological impact of the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone/benzophenone‐3onlinelibrary.wiley.com
  3. 3
    Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients A Randomized Clinical Trialjamanetwork.com
  4. 4
    On Photostability of Oxybenzonecore.ac.uk
  5. 5
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  6. 6
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
Charles + Lee Oil Free Moisturiser
Charles + LeeOil Free Moisturiser
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.