Esmi Skin Minerals Detox Hydra-Fluid Moisturiser

Esmi Skin Minerals Detox Hydra-Fluid Moisturiser

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 8 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Detox Hydra-Fluid Moisturiser”
Source: Sephora AU

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6–9%
Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.5–2.2%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.3–1.9%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.9–2.8%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.85–1.25%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–5.3%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.05–0.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.1–3.2%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.55–1.3%
Cucumis sativus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect~0.15–0.55%
Evens skin tone
Lactic acid
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Feed your skin with lactic acid which stimulates cell turnover to improve tone and texture.”
Source: Sephora AU

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.5–2.2%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Lactic acid
Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.5–2.2%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Lactic acid, Hyaluronic acid
Moderate evidence

This product contains lactic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.5–2.2%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.85–1.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 10 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6–9%est.
Glyceryl oleate citrateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.6–3.9%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~1.5–2.2%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.55–1.3%est.
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.95%est.
Daucus carota sativa extract—Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Cucumis sativus fruit extractMight be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effectMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract—3/5~0.2–0.75%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6–9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~3.6–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Glyceryl oleate citrate~2.6–3.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glyceryl oleate citrate
Butylene glycol~2.1–3.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Squalane~1.9–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Lactic acid~1.5–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Panthenol~1.3–1.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Polysorbate 20~1–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Hyaluronic acid~0.85–1.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.55–1.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Hedychium coronarium root extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Biosaccharide gum-4~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the product texture

More about Biosaccharide gum-4
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract~0.2–0.75%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract
Daucus carota sativa extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Cucumis sativus fruit extract~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

Might be somewhat helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals but its typical concentration in a product is too low for having an effect

More about Cucumis sativus fruit extract
Charcoal~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Charcoal
Leontopodium alpinum flower extract~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl glycol~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl oleate citrate, Butylene glycol, Squalane, Lactic acid, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Hyaluronic acid, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Hedychium coronarium root extract, Biosaccharide gum-4, Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract, Daucus carota sativa extract, Cucumis sativus fruit extract, Charcoal, Leontopodium alpinum flower extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol

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Sephora AU
≈ $56.20
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Esmi Skin MineralsDetox Hydra-Fluid MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTpreangeVit B5 Emulsion
Match—54%
Price$56.20$21.15−$35.05
Shared key ingredients—5 of 6
Key difference—Niacinamide
Irritancy Low Low
Drying alcohol——
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 7 studies and safety reviews.

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Esmi Skin Minerals Detox Hydra-Fluid Moisturiser
Esmi Skin MineralsDetox Hydra-Fluid Moisturiser

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