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Chantecaille Blanc Gardenia Brightening Emulsion
Chantecaille

Chantecaille Blanc Gardenia Brightening Emulsion

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
8 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Key Benefits Contains natural ingredients that aid in the slowing of the signs of age Skin looks and feels firmer Complexion becomes clearer Minimises skin discolouration Paraben free UK300026110”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.6–6.8%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.8–2.2%
Palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1Key activeEffect: Medium~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.55%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%
Exfoliation
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Green decaffeinated coffee helps gently exfoliate the skin, resulting in an even complexion.Suitable for all skin types, it is best used twice a day for maximum benefit.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Moisturizing
17 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“A soft, lightweight moisturizer infused with Vitamin C and unique brightening ingredients that work to minimize visible discoloration and nourish skin to maintain an even looking skin tone . See More”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.6–6.8%
Palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1HeroEffect: High~0.15–0.3%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.8–2.2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~4.1–5%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.5–0.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.2–2.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.3–1.5%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.95–1.2%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–0.95%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.45–0.65%
Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~28–34%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.4–0.65%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.75–1.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Evens skin tone
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“A soft, lightweight moisturizer infused with Vitamin C and unique brightening ingredients that work to minimize visible discoloration and nourish skin to maintain an even looking skin tone . See More”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ascorbyl glucoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.6–6.8%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.8–2.2%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.55%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycolic acid

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~5.6–6.8%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl glucoside) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.8–2.2%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Coffea arabica seed extractEffect: LowMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.35–0.6%
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.4–0.65%
Rosa damascena flower waterEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~28–34%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Alcohol denat. + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 25 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~28–34%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.3–1.6%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1.8–2.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.8–2.2%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.65–1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonateHelps protect the ingredients in the formulation against UV lightMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Tributyl citrateHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Polyvinyl alcoholHelps improve the product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.7–1.05%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~28–34%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water
Water~12–15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Niacinamide~5.6–6.8%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Dimethicone~4.1–5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Propanediol~2.8–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~2.2–2.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Ascorbyl glucoside~1.8–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.8–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Alcohol denat.~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Cetyl alcohol~1.3–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Dicaprylyl ether~0.95–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Sorbitan oleate~0.7–1.05%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate
Phenoxyethanol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Stearic acid~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Glyceryl stearate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.65–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Steareth-21~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Sodium hydroxide~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Disodium edta~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Dimethiconol~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Buteth-3~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Buteth-3
Sodium hyaluronate~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps protect the ingredients in the formulation against UV light

More about Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Peg-8~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Coffea arabica seed extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Tributyl citrate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Tributyl citrate
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Brassica rapa root extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Brassica rapa root extract
Citric acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ascorbic acid~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Gardenia jasminoides leaf cell extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Gardenia jasminoides leaf cell extract
Palmitoyl sh-octapeptide-24 amide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Palmitoyl sh-octapeptide-24 amide
Glycolic acid~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Polyvinyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps improve the product texture

More about Polyvinyl alcohol
Palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1
Citronellol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Water, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ascorbyl glucoside, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Alcohol denat., Cetyl alcohol, Dicaprylyl ether, Sorbitan oleate, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Steareth-21, Sodium hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Dimethiconol, Buteth-3, Sodium hyaluronate, Sodium benzotriazolyl butylphenol sulfonate, Rosa damascena flower oil, Peg-8, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Coffea arabica seed extract, Tocopherol, Portulaca oleracea extract, Tributyl citrate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Brassica rapa root extract, Citric acid, Ascorbic acid, Gardenia jasminoides leaf cell extract, Palmitoyl sh-octapeptide-24 amide, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Polyvinyl alcohol, Palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ChantecailleBlanc Gardenia Brightening EmulsionYOUR PRODUCTROSE Ingleton MDSignature MoisturizerDr Naomi SkinSmooth CriminalLieracMésolift Remineralising Anti-Fatigue Cream
Match—70%67%67%
Price$96.00$85.00−$11.00$170.96+$74.96$44.82−$51.18
Shared key ingredients—8 of 105 of 106 of 10
Key difference—Ceramide ApUreaLactic Acid
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"Chantecaille - Blanc Gardenia Brightening Emulsion" is effective for: Anti-aging, Anti-blemish, Exfoliation, Moisturizing and Evens skin tone

Ingredient callouts

  • We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 5.60% - 6.80%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.
  • This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.30% - 0.55%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl sh-tripeptide-5 norisoleucyl sh-nonapeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "Chantecaille" is cruelty free, but its parent company is not.

Price

The product retails for 118.00£ in the United Kingdom and for 96.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  2. 2
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  5. 5
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  6. 6
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Chantecaille Blanc Gardenia Brightening Emulsion
ChantecailleBlanc Gardenia Brightening Emulsion
Buy at SpaceNK US$96.00Amazon

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Buy at SpaceNK US$96.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.