botik Retinol Pure Wrinkle Reducing Cream Gel

Retinol Pure Wrinkle Reducing Cream Gel

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredient list, "botik - Retinol Pure Wrinkle Reducing Cream Gel" can work well for skin moisturization.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "botik - Retinol Pure Wrinkle Reducing Cream Gel" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Botik - Retinol Pure Wrinkle Reducing Cream Gel ticks this box. Allantoin, aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (linoleic acid, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and dimethiconol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.50% - 0.75%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • We love that there is also Linoleic Acid in this moisturizer (0.55% - 0.80%). Linoleic Acid is one of the skin's natural emollients. It supports the skin barrier and can even help reduce clogged pores.
  • In addition, this moisturizer contains Allantoin (1.20% - 1.50%). Allantoin is helpful in wound-healing and can help restore the skin barrier faster. It might also be able to improve scars, but the evidence is not very strong for this.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lactic acid, lecithin and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing
8 ingredients contribute at the levels below
Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.55–0.8%
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.2–5.1%
DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.1–2.5%
DIMETHICONOLRole: Key activeA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.45–0.65%
ALLANTOINRole: Key activeHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~1.2–1.5%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
APHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE EXTRACTRole: Key activeAn extract from ablue-green algae. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
RETINOL at ~0.5–0.75% + 2 more curated actives
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
RETINOL at ~0.5–0.75% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
BISABOLOLRole: Key activeAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.3–0.5%
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.55–0.8%
APHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE EXTRACTRole: Key activeAn extract from ablue-green algae. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
RETINOL at ~0.5–0.75% delivers this without it being on the label
Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.75%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Butyrospermum parkii butterRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysateRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can add sweet taste to lip products~2.4–2.9%
DimethiconeRole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.1–2.5%
AllantoinRole: Key activeHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~1.2–1.5%
Caprylic/capric glyceridesRole: Key activeHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Linoleic acidRole: Key activeAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.55–0.8%
DimethiconolRole: Key activeA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.45–0.65%
BisabololRole: Key activeAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.3–0.5%
Dimethicone crosspolymerRole: Key activeUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~0.35–0.6%
Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extractRole: Key activeAn extract from ablue-green algae. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Coenochloris signiensis extractRole: Key activeAn algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and neutralize free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Irritancy
18 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.6–0.9%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~4.2–5.1%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishLow~1.7–2.1%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.6–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.6–0.85%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessLow~0.45–0.7%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.35–0.65%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.3–0.6%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeLow~0.3–0.55%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Low~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
Butyrospermum parkii butter ~3.2–3.9% — rinse-off or low %
Some risk
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~3.2–3.9%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Propanediol~4.5–5.5%
Formula
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.2–5.1%
Key activeLow-irritation
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.2–3.9%
Key activeComedo · high
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Dimethicone~2.1–2.5%
Key active
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~1.7–2.1%
Low-irritation
Isohexadecane~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Allantoin~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Peg-6 isostearate~1–1.2%
Formula
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Parfum~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · high
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.6–0.9%
Low-irritation
Caprylyl glycol~0.6–0.85%
Low-irritation
Tocopherol~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosed
Caprylic/capric glycerides~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Retinol~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · high
Polysorbate 80~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Polysorbate 20~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Linoleic acid~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Oleic acid~0.45–0.7%
Low-irritation
Dimethiconol~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Polysorbate 60~0.35–0.65%
Low-irritation
Bisabolol~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Dimethicone crosspolymer~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Ppg-15 stearyl ether~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Maltodextrin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Disodium edta~0.3–0.6%
Low-irritation
Sorbitan isostearate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Aphanizomenon flos-aquae extract~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Helianthus annuus seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Hesperetin laurate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.55%
Low-irritation
Ci 19140~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Coenochloris signiensis extract~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Lecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Lactic acid~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedLow-irritation
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Citronellol~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Limonene~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Linalool~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high

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