What's In My Jar
BIOTHERM Hydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower
BIOTHERM

BIOTHERM Hydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Urea + 20 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This moisturizing gel is formulated with oligo-elements and vitamins.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, aspartic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.65–0.95%
UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.2–0.35%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.6–6.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.1–3.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.5–1.8%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.45–0.65%
2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time~0.4–0.6%
FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.3–0.55%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%
Manganese gluconateKey activeEffect: HighMight be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration~0.15–0.3%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.15–0.25%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.1–0.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.4–2.9%
Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.45–0.65%
Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Copper gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.35%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.3%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Aspartic acid, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 4 more
May help

This product contains aspartic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.1–2.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.2–0.35%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Menthoxypropanediol + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~4.4–5.3%est.
MenthoxypropanediolUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Hexyl nicotinateMight be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin rednessHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.9–1.1%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.1–2.5%est.
Alternatives
The closest match we found
AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER
BIO AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER
Closest match67% match
$55.00
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dimethicone~5.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Alcohol denat.~4.4–5.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Glycerin~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.1–2.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~1.5–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Tocopheryl acetate~0.9–1.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Panthenol~0.65–0.95%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Hexylene glycol~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Magnesium gluconate~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate
2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time

More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol
Cholesterol~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Fructose~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose
Glucose~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ascorbyl glucoside~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Vitreoscilla ferment~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vitreoscilla ferment
Menthoxypropanediol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Menthoxypropanediol
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Triethanolamine~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Urea~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Zinc gluconate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Dextrin~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Coumarin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Copper gluconate~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate
Citral~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Ci 42090~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ci 19140~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Hexyl nicotinate~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
De-puffing

Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness

More about Hexyl nicotinate
Sucrose~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Glutamic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Manganese gluconate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration

More about Manganese gluconate
Aspartic acid~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Alanine~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Parfum~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol denat., Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Panthenol, Hexylene glycol, Magnesium gluconate, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Fructose, Glucose, Biosaccharide gum-1, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl glucoside, Vitreoscilla ferment, Menthoxypropanediol, Disodium edta, Linalool, Limonene, Triethanolamine, Urea, Zinc gluconate, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl salicylate, Dextrin, Citronellol, Coumarin, Benzyl alcohol, Copper gluconate, Citral, Ci 42090, Ci 19140, Hexyl nicotinate, Sucrose, Glutamic acid, Manganese gluconate, Aspartic acid, Alanine, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
BIOTHERMHydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPowerYOUR PRODUCTBIOAQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZERCetaphilOptimal Hydration Skin Replenishing Water GelBaleaQ10 Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream
Match—67%55%54%
Price—$55.00—$7.23
Shared key ingredients—16 of 204 of 2010 of 20
Key difference—Copper PcaNiacinamideCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Irritancy High High Low Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ——
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  5. 5
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
BIOTHERM Hydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower
BIOTHERMHydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower
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