Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Hydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
alanine, aspartic acid.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, urea
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
This product contains aspartic acid. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Dryness, Uneven Skin Tone, and Redness Formulation.
Source: Sephora
This product contains ingredients (alanine) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 75/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 BIOTHERM Hydratant soin dynamique oligo-thermal AquaPower | Current | $43.00 | |
BIO AQUAPOWER GEL MOISTURIZER | 62% | $38.00 | |
 Dr. Barbara Sturm Clarifying Face Cream | 54% | $135.00 | |
 EVY Technology Daily Tan Activator | 53% | $25.00 | |
Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Lotion | 53% | $23.60 | |
 BABOR Skinovage Argan Cream | 52% | - |
Key Actives
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
An emollient that helps soften the skin
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin
Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration
Potential irritants
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Comedogenic ingredients
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
All ingredients
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Used to create a thicker product consistency
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell
Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Might be able to enhance blood flow in the skin. Can be irritating and result in skin redness
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion
An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Might be able to help restore skin barrier function supporting its hydration
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Dimethicone, Alcohol denat., Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl acetate, Panthenol, Hexylene glycol, Magnesium gluconate, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Cholesterol, Fructose, Glucose, Biosaccharide gum-1, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl glucoside, Vitreoscilla ferment, Menthoxypropanediol, Disodium edta, Linalool, Limonene, Triethanolamine, Urea, Zinc gluconate, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl salicylate, Dextrin, Citronellol, Coumarin, Benzyl alcohol, Copper gluconate, Citral, Ci 42090, Ci 19140, Hexyl nicotinate, Sucrose, Glutamic acid, Manganese gluconate, Aspartic acid, Alanine, Parfum
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Ceramides as Used in Cosmetics
- Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Function
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Topical urea in skincare: A review
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Analysis of Dyes in Cosmetics: Challenges and Recent Developments
- The effects of topically applied hexyl nicotinate lotion on the cutaneous blood flow in patients with Raynaud's phenomenon
- Hexyl-Nicotinate-Induced Vasodilation in Normal Human Skin
- Differences among moisturizers in affecting skin susceptibility to hexyl nicotinate, measured as time to increase skin blood flow
- Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof
- In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
- Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cells