PRODUCT REVIEW

BIOTHERM Gel Aquasource, peau normale/mixte

Works for:

based on ingredients and %

Moisturizing
Evens skin tone
Exfoliation

Can it cause trouble?

Key actives

Zinc gluconate 0.45% - 0.65%Tocopherol 0.25% - 0.4%

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "BIOTHERM - Gel Aquasource, peau normale/mixte" can work well for skin moisturization. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (glycerin and hydroxyethyl urea) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, cholesterol, glycine soja oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil and butyrospermum parkii butter) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.60% - 0.90%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: zinc gluconate and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

What can the product work for?

Evens skin tone

What does the product description say?

This iconic moisturizer, now with an even more regenerative action and visible efficiency on brightness, leave skin softer, smoother, more even, and radiant in as little as 10 days.

Source: Sephora

This product might be able to help reduce hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains hydroxyethyl urea. The effect, if any, is likely to be small. Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.

capryloyl salicylic acid 0.25% - 0.4%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Effectiveness: MEDIUM

zinc gluconate 0.45% - 0.65%

Irritation risk:

Concentration: Insufficient!

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

Moisturizing

What does the product description say?

This iconic moisturizer, now with an even more regenerative action and visible efficiency on brightness, leave skin softer, smoother, more even, and radiant in as little as 10 days.

Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine

dimethicone 3.1% - 3.8%

Irritation risk: