BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Red Algae Cream

BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Red Algae Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Biotherm’s Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift Day Cream is a velvety formula designed to target the visible signs of ageing.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
RhamnoseEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together. It also helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.45–0.7%
Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Infused with 100% natural life plankton, the cream works to soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium lactate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~4.2–5.1%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.5%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.45%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.6%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.75–1.15%
RhamnoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together. It also helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~2.4–2.9%
Isopropyl isostearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.5–1.8%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~1.2–1.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.6%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.45–0.7%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Linalool + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.9–2.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix together and workd as a cleanserMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateUsed to improve stability of the formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
6 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
6 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl isostearateAn emollient that helps soften the skin3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.45–0.7%est.
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract—3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Sorbitan oleateHelps oil and water mix together2/5~0.3–0.6%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.3–0.6%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Dimethicone~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Rhamnose~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Helps oil and water mix together. It also helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Rhamnose
Isohexadecane~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Alcohol denat.~1.9–2.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Propanediol~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Isopropyl isostearate~1.5–1.8%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Isopropyl isostearate
Behenyl alcohol~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer~0.9–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A type of silicone that create a smooth product finish and can create an optical soft-focus effect on the skin. Helps to thicken the product consistency

More about Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
Cetyl alcohol~0.75–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Nylon-12~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Nylon-12
Alaria esculenta extract~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Carrageenan~0.45–0.7%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Tin oxide~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Peg-100 stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Stearic acid~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Sorbitan oleate~0.3–0.6%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan oleate
Carbomer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Cetearyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Cetearyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Caffeine~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Sodium chloride~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Sodium lactate~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Myristic acid~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Palmitic acid~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Adenosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
Disodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together and workd as a cleanser

More about Disodium stearoyl glutamate
Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract~0.25–0.5%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Vitreoscilla ferment~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve stability of the formulation

More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 80~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures

More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ci 77163~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Colorant

More about Ci 77163
Ci 77491~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Iron oxides~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ci 77891~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Mica~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Linalool~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Limonene~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citronellol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
(f.i.l. b264677/1)
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Rhamnose, Isohexadecane, Alcohol denat., Propanediol, Isopropyl isostearate, Behenyl alcohol, Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, Cetyl alcohol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Nylon-12, Alaria esculenta extract, Carrageenan, Tin oxide, Peg-100 stearate, Stearic acid, Sorbitan oleate, Carbomer, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside, Caffeine, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, Sodium chloride, Sodium lactate, Myristic acid, Palmitic acid, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Disodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydrolyzed rhodophyceae extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Caprylyl glycol, Vitreoscilla ferment, Citric acid, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Xanthan gum, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 77163, Ci 77491, Iron oxides, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Mica, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Parfum, Unknown

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
BIOTHERMBlue Therapy Red Algae CreamYOUR PRODUCTMedipeelPeptide 9 Volume Tox Cream ProPaula's choiceResist Intensive Repair CreamInstitut EsthedermExcellage Re-Densifying Face Cream
Match—66%65%64%
Price$28.39$49.58+$21.19$26.40−$1.99$81.00+$52.61
Shared key ingredients—6 of 97 of 97 of 9
Key difference—Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "BIOTHERM - Blue Therapy Red Algae Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin, sodium lactate, rhamnose, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.55% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.30% - 0.55%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45% in this product adds an anti-aging property to it. Adenosine is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of adenosine in a low concentration reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where we our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 121.02A$ in Australia, for 64.20$ in the United States and from 21.30£ up to 58.50£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

BIOTHERM Blue Therapy Red Algae Cream
BIOTHERMBlue Therapy Red Algae Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.