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Beekman 1802 Blotting Booster PHA Calamine Blemish Serum
Beekman 1802

Beekman 1802 Blotting Booster PHA Calamine Blemish Serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Exfoliation
Gluconolactone
Works well
What the product description says
“Formulated with PHA (polyhydroxy acid), a gentle but effective exfoliating active, as well as calamine to help soothe irritated skin and restore a clearer, more radiant complexion.”
Source: Beekman

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: gluconolactone.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
Anti-blemish
Gluconolactone, Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Reduces the appearance of blemishes and impurities”
Source: Beekman

This product contains ingredients (gluconolactone) that could help reduce blemishes and clogged pores in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

GluconolactoneEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.4–0.95%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Gluconolactone
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains gluconolactone.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Gluconolactone
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: gluconolactone

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Gluconolactone, Eclipta prostrata extract + 6 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (gluconolactone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is some human evidence for this effect in skin, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best antioxidants.

GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
Eclipta prostrata extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating~0.5–1.2%
Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.4–0.9%
Coccinia indica fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skin~0.35–0.75%
Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.35–0.85%
Aloe barbadensis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.8%
Solanum melongena fruit extractEffect: LowEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.8%
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals~0.1–0.45%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Glycerin, Gluconolactone + 6 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, coco-caprylate/caprate.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.2%
GluconolactoneKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~2.7–4.1%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.2–3.2%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~1.7–2.6%
Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.35–0.85%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~1.5–2.2%
Moringa oleifera seed oil· EmollientEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid~0.4–0.9%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.2–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Medium risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eclipta prostrata extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1.2%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.95%est.
Aloe barbadensis flower extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.2–0.8%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extractUsed as a fragrance. Canbe irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~2.7–4.1%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~1.1–1.6%est.
Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Moringa oleifera seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acidMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Coccinia indica fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Solanum melongena fruit extractEggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.2–0.7%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.35–0.85%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
PolyPep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 with ChroNOline Tetrapeptide, Polyhydroxy Acids and Centella Asiatica
Facetheory PolyPep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 with ChroNOline Tetrapeptide, Polyhydroxy Acids and Centella Asiatica
Higher efficacy · 100/10061% match
Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate
Kiehl's Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate
Higher efficacy · 87/10061% match
$69.44
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.8–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Glycerin~3.5–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Gluconolactone~2.7–4.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone
Squalane~2.2–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Coco-caprylate/caprate~1.7–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glyceryl caprylate~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Calamine~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calamine
Acacia senegal gum~1.1–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Cetearyl olivate~0.85–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Eclipta prostrata extract~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. It can be irritating

More about Eclipta prostrata extract
Sorbitan olivate~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.4–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Melia azadirachta flower extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract
Corallina officinalis extract~0.35–0.85%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Moringa oleifera seed oil~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid

More about Moringa oleifera seed oil
Coccinia indica fruit extract~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Coccinia indica fruit extract
Solanum melongena fruit extract~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Solanum melongena fruit extract
Aloe barbadensis flower extract~0.2–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Aloe barbadensis flower extract
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.2–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Curcuma longa root extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extract~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Canbe irritating

More about Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extract
Ocimum sanctum leaf extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals

More about Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Sodium citrate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Squalane, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glyceryl caprylate, Calamine, Acacia senegal gum, Cetearyl olivate, Eclipta prostrata extract, Sorbitan olivate, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Corallina officinalis extract, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Coccinia indica fruit extract, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Aloe barbadensis flower extract, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Curcuma longa root extract, Ocimum basilicum flower/leaf extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Xanthan gum, Sodium benzoate, Sodium citrate, Potassium sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Beekman 1802Blotting Booster PHA Calamine Blemish SerumYOUR PRODUCTEstelle and ThildEstelle Thild BioCalm Optimal Rescue SerumFacetheoryPolyPep Collagen Boosting Serum S8 with ChroNOline Tetrapeptide, Polyhydroxy Acids and Centella AsiaticaKiehl'sHydro-Plumping Re-Texturizing Serum Concentrate
Match—61%61%61%
Price$8.00——$69.44+$61.44
Shared key ingredients—3 of 62 of 62 of 6
Key difference—Oatmeal ExtractCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3Adenosine
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: Herbivore Botanicals Milky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating SerumHerbivore Milky Way 10% AHA + Oat Soothing Exfoliating Serum

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
  6. 6
    A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Beekman 1802 Blotting Booster PHA Calamine Blemish Serum
Beekman 1802Blotting Booster PHA Calamine Blemish Serum
Buy at Beekman$8.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Beekman$8.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.