PRODUCT REVIEW
Augustinus Bader The Retinol Serum GWP
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Powered by the brand’s TFC8® technology, the serum is specially formulated to reduce the appearances of blemishes, pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and deep lines and wrinkles, whilst also working to protect your skin from premature ageing.
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
zinc pca
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
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Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Powered by the brand’s TFC8® technology, the serum is specially formulated to reduce the appearances of blemishes, pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and deep lines and wrinkles, whilst also working to protect your skin from premature ageing.
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
alanyl glutamine
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
zinc pca
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Powered by the brand’s TFC8® technology, the serum is specially formulated to reduce the appearances of blemishes, pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and deep lines and wrinkles, whilst also working to protect your skin from premature ageing.
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
niacinamide
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
camellia sinensis leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
Exfoliation
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Moisturizing
zinc pca
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
arginine
0.15% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
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Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
zinc pca
0.15% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
myristyl alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glycine soja oil
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Evens skin tone,
Reduces irritation,
Reduces redness,
Antibacterial,
Anti-inflammatory
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Potential irritants
myristyl alcohol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating
retinol
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Mattifying,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
glycine soja oil
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.3% -
1.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
All ingredients
caprylic/capric triglyceride
5.9% -
7.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
glycerin
4% -
4.9%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, C12-16 alcohols, Squalane, Propanediol, Glycine soja oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Ectoin, Helianthus annuus hybrid oil, Palmitic acid, Myristyl alcohol, Pca, Hydrogenated lecithin, Xanthan gum, Potassium sorbate, Carbomer, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Sodium benzoate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Citric acid, Zinc pca, Maltodextrin, Retinol, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Panthenol, Totarol, Leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, Niacinamide, Sodium hydroxide, Calcium pantothenate, Sodium starch octenylsuccinate, Magnolia officinalis bark extract, Piper nigrum seed extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Pyridoxine hcl, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium irio seed oil, Sodium chloride, Silica
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cosmetic allergy from myristyl alcohol
- Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?
- Patch testing with myristyl alcohol
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis
- Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Protection Against Free Radicals (UVB Irradiation) of a Water-Soluble Enzymatic Extract from Rice Bran. Study Using Human Keratinocyte Monolayer and Reconstructed Human Epidermis
- Amended final report on the safety assessment of Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Oil, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Oil, Rice Bran Acid,Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran Wax, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Wax, Oryza Sativa (rice)Bran Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Extract, Oryza Sativa (rice) Germ Powder, Oryza Sativa (rice) Starch, Oryza Sativa (rice) Bran, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, and Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Calcium pantothenate modulates gene expression in proliferating human dermal fibroblasts
- Dexpanthenol Modulates Gene Expression in Skin Wound Healing in vivo
- Dexapanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation
- Nuclear Factor Kappa B Inhibition as a Therapeutic Target of Nutraceuticals in Arthritis, Osteoarthritis, and Related Inflammation
- Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Chemical Composition of Essential Oils from Aerial Parts of Sisymbrium Irio from Jordan