What's In My Jar
Augustinus Bader The Icons: The Cream
Augustinus Bader

Augustinus Bader The Icons: The Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh·100% recommend (1 review)
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Ceramide ng + 35 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The Cream: A lightweight, fast-absorbing hydrator with TFC8® that helps replenish moisture and restore the complexion.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanyl glutamine, anhydroxylitol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, ceramide np, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.55–0.8%
Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.5%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-8HeroEffect: High~0.25–0.4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.9–7.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–0.65%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.6%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.55%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%
DextranKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar~0.25–0.45%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.25–0.45%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%
Alanyl glutamineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.45%
XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
LysineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Glycine soja proteinKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.25–0.5%
ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.2–0.4%
Scenedesmus rubescens extractKey activeEffect: HighA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~4.4–5.4%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~3.1–3.8%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.6–2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.55%
Lauryl laurateEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.25–0.5%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.25–0.5%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.25–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.25–0.5%
Anti-aging
Alanyl glutamine, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 + 8 more
May help
What the product description says
“Working in tandem to grant head-to-toe hydration and beautifully supple skin, consider this decadent duo the ultimate gift for ultra-discerning skintellectuals yourself included! Each formula is powered by the patented 'Trigger Factor Complex' (TFC8) which unlocks your bodys innate code for skin rejuvenation, supporting cell renewal to reduce signs of ageing and damage caused by environmental stressors.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product contains alanyl glutamine, lysine, palmitoyl tripeptide-8. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Alanyl glutamineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-8Key activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.4%
LysineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Glycine soja proteinEffect: LowA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.25–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Glycine soja protein, Ascorbic acid + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“The Body Cream: A richly moisturizing, multiple-award-winning indulgence formulated with our exclusive skincare technology to intensely hydrate while helping to visibly improve tone and texture.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product contains ingredients (glycine soja protein) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycine soja proteinEffect: LowA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Superoxide dismutase, Hydrolyzed rice protein + 8 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Superoxide dismutaseKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.25–0.45%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.6%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.5%
Glycine soja proteinEffect: LowA plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking~0.25–0.5%
Scenedesmus rubescens extractEffect: LowA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.25–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Alcohol, Retinyl palmitate — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~3.1–3.8%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.9–7.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~4.4–5.4%est.
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholineHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~1.3–1.6%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Scenedesmus rubescens extractA micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Lauryl laurateHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.2–1.5%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
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User reviews

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.9–7.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Pentylene glycol~4.4–5.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Propylene glycol~3.1–3.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine
Glycerin~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Sorbitol~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Tocopheryl acetate~1.3–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.2–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Xanthan gum~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Butylene glycol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Panthenol~0.55–0.8%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Sodium carbomer~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps improve the texture

More about Sodium carbomer
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Alcohol~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein
Squalane~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Cholesterol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Ceramide np~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Glycine soja protein~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and soften it. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. It might be somewhat helpful for evening out the skin tone. It might be able to support elastin production but solid research is lacking

More about Glycine soja protein
Superoxide dismutase~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants

More about Superoxide dismutase
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Dextran~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar

More about Dextran
Palmitoyl tripeptide-8~0.25–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging
More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-8
Alanyl glutamine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine
Arginine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Ceramide ng~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng
Glycine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Lysine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine
Oleic acid~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Palmitic acid~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Phenylalanine~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phenylalanine
Proline~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Proline
Scenedesmus rubescens extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium dextran sulfate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium dextran sulfate
Brassica alba seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Brassica alba seed oil
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Oligopeptide-177~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oligopeptide-177
Sodium ascorbate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium ascorbate
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Water~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Behenyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Dicaprylyl ether~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Glycerin~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Lauryl laurate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lauryl laurate
Myristyl myristate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate
Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Xylitylglucoside~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Citric acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Bisabolol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Glucose~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Cholesterol~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract
Alanyl glutamine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Alanyl glutamine
Arginine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Ceramide ng~0.3–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng
Ceramide np~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Glycine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Lysine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Lysine
Oleic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Palmitic acid~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Phenylalanine~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phenylalanine
Proline~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Proline
Scenedesmus rubescens extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A micro-algae extract that might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support its barrier function, amd might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Scenedesmus rubescens extract
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Brassica alba seed oil~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Brassica alba seed oil
Disodium edta~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Oligopeptide-177~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oligopeptide-177
Sodium ascorbate~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sodium ascorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Pentylene glycol, Propylene glycol, Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Tocopheryl acetate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Xanthan gum, Butylene glycol, Panthenol, Sodium carbomer, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Alcohol, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Squalane, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium hydroxide, Carbomer, Lecithin, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ceramide np, Glycine soja protein, Superoxide dismutase, Citric acid, Dextran, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Ceramide ng, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus rubescens extract, Ascorbic acid, Retinyl palmitate, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium dextran sulfate, Brassica alba seed oil, Disodium edta, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium ascorbate, Tocopherol, Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Behenyl alcohol, Dicaprylyl ether, Glycerin, Lauryl laurate, Myristyl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid, Bisabolol, Xanthan gum, Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Alcohol, Glucose, Tocopheryl acetate, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sodium hydroxide, Verbena officinalis flower/leaf extract, Alanyl glutamine, Arginine, Ceramide ng, Ceramide np, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic acid, Palmitic acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus rubescens extract, Phenoxyethanol, Brassica alba seed oil, Disodium edta, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium ascorbate

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Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Augustinus BaderThe Icons: The CreamYOUR PRODUCTDr. BioECO Moisture CreamNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital CreamPEACH & LILYUltra Plush Rich Cream
Match—50%50%49%
Price—$25.90$60.00$45.00
Shared key ingredients—10 of 239 of 239 of 23
Key difference—Linoleic AcidHexapeptide-11Phytosphingosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Augustinus Bader - The Icons: The Cream" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Augustinus Bader - The Icons: The Cream ticks this box. Panthenol, alanyl glutamine, anhydroxylitol, arginine and dextran in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide ng, ceramide np, cholesterol, arginine and butyrospermum parkii butter in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.45% - 0.70%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.30% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide ng 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide ng 0.40% - 0.60% and ceramide np 0.45% - 0.65%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-8 0.35% - 0.60%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • This formulation also includes panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.60% - 0.90% concentration. In this concentration, panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 300.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Augustinus Bader The Icons: The Cream
Augustinus BaderThe Icons: The Cream
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