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Aspect Doctor Aspect Dr Problem Skin Serum
Aspect Doctor

Aspect Doctor Aspect Dr Problem Skin Serum

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-blemish
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
May help
What the product description says
“The formula contains Stay C-50, a highly stabilized form of pure vitamin C, which helps to reduce the appearance of blemishes without the harsh chemicals that are often used in treating acne skin.”
Source: Face the future

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~6.5–9.8%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~1–1.5%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Lactic acid
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: lactic acid.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.7–2.5%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Lactic acid
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: lactic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.7–2.5%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Glycerin, Lactic acid + 2 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, lactic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, lecithin.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
Lactic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.7–2.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.5–2.3%
Lecithin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.1–3.1%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract + 8 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is some human evidence for this effect in skin, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best antioxidants.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~6.5–9.8%
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might contain antioxidants~2.8–4.3%
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking~1.2–1.8%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: LowCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~1–1.5%
Arctium lappa root extractEffect: LowPlant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating~0.85–1.25%
Sambucus nigra flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.5–1.1%
Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~0.4–0.9%
Carapa guaianensis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that contains limonoids. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be irritating~0.2–0.75%
Euterpe oleracea fruit oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.15–0.65%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.6%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Lactic acid, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
May help

This product contains lactic acid. There is some human evidence that this ingredient helps reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and firmness, though it is smaller or less consistent than the evidence for the best anti-aging ingredients.

Lactic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~1.7–2.5%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: LowA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~6.5–9.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Lavandula angustifolia extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extractA plant extract that might contain antioxidantsHigh~2.8–4.3%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~1–1.5%est.
Arctium lappa root extractPlant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.85–1.25%est.
Sambucus nigra flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.5–1.1%est.
Lavandula angustifolia extractUsed for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skinHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.35–0.85%est.
Copaifera officinalis resinUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.35–0.85%est.
Carapa guaianensis seed oilA plant oil that contains limonoids. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~6.5–9.8%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~1.7–2.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.5–2.3%est.
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lackingMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Euterpe oleracea fruit oilA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
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Vitamin C 12% Supershot Advanced Brightening Serum
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Higher efficacy · 100/10056% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~6.5–9.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract~2.8–4.3%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might contain antioxidants

More about Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract
Lecithin~2.1–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Lactic acid~1.7–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.5–2.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract~1.2–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~1–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Arctium lappa root extract~0.85–1.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Has some anti-microbial and anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Arctium lappa root extract
Sambucus nigra flower extract~0.5–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Sambucus nigra flower extract
Lavandula angustifolia extract~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used for fragrance and contains volatile compounds that can irritate the skin

More about Lavandula angustifolia extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Rosa damascena extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Copaifera officinalis resin~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Copaifera officinalis resin
Carapa guaianensis seed oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that contains limonoids. Might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be irritating

More about Carapa guaianensis seed oil
Euterpe oleracea fruit oil~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Euterpe oleracea fruit oil
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sclerotium gum~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Citrus limon peel oil~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Tetrasodium edta~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Glycerin, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Lecithin, Lactic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Arctium lappa root extract, Sambucus nigra flower extract, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Rosa damascena extract, Copaifera officinalis resin, Carapa guaianensis seed oil, Euterpe oleracea fruit oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, Citrus limon peel oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Tetrasodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Aspect DoctorAspect Dr Problem Skin SerumYOUR PRODUCTfrank bodyCollagen Boost SerumBalance Active FormulaVitamin C 12% Supershot Advanced Brightening SerumWhite EgretVitamin C Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Match—56%56%50%
Price—$19.00—$33.83
Shared key ingredients—2 of 72 of 73 of 7
Key difference—Ferulic Acid—Retinyl Palmitate
Irritancy High Low Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
  4. 4
    Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
  5. 5
    Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
Aspect Doctor Aspect Dr Problem Skin Serum
Aspect DoctorAspect Dr Problem Skin Serum
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