Anua

Anua Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum

Name: Anua - Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum
Brand: Anua

Efficacy95/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone

Azelaic acid, Salicylic acid + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“🍵 Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate Proven A derivative of licorice root with powerful anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties.”

Source: N/A

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: azelaic acid, salicylic acid

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals15%

Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–0.7%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.55–0.85%

Moisturizing

Panthenol, Ceramide np + 23 more

Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np, madecassoside, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.65–1%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.5–0.75%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–0.7%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~3.3–4%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.6–2%

Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.75–1.1%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.7–1.05%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.7–1%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.65–1%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.6–0.85%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.5–0.75%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.45–0.65%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.45–0.65%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.45–0.65%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.35–0.65%

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Sodium acetylated hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.35%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~4.4–5.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–1%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.65%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.55–0.85%

AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.5–0.75%

Exfoliation

Azelaic acid, Salicylic acid + 1 more

Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Azelaic acidKey activeEffect: MediumIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals15%

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.5–0.75%

Anti-blemish

Azelaic acid, Salicylic acid + 6 more

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid, salicylic acid. These ingredients is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: zinc pca

Azelaic acidHeroEffect: HighIs produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals15%

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.6–0.9%

Zinc pcaKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.35–0.65%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~3.3–4%

Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~2.5–3.1%

Centella asiatica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~1–1.3%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–0.8%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.5–0.75%

Anti-aging

Centella asiatica extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract + 6 more

May help

This product contains asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~3.3–4%

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~1–1.3%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.45–0.65%

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–0.7%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.7–1.05%

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.35–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Azelaic acid, Centella asiatica extract + 7 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, azelaic acid, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.45–0.7%

Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~2–2.4%

Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.75–1.1%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Melaleuca alternifolia leaf water

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~4.4–5.4%est.

Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~2.5–3.1%est.

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf water—High~1.4–1.8%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.6–0.9%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.6–3.2%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~3.3–4%est.

Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~2–2.4%est.

Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~1–1.3%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.75–1.1%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Theobroma cacao extract—3/5~1.2–1.5%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.75–1.1%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

The Purest Solutions Intensive Hydration Serum Hyaluronic Acid %2 + B5

Higher efficacy · 100/10074% match

skinmade Azelaic Acid + Salicylic Acid serum

Higher efficacy · 100/10072% match

View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Azelaic acid15%

Hero · Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals

More about Azelaic acid

Sodium hydroxide~28–34%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Water~11–13%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Propylene glycol~4.4–5.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

1,2-hexanediol~2.6–3.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Centella asiatica extract~3.3–4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Melia azadirachta leaf extract~2.5–3.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract

Melia azadirachta flower extract~2–2.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract

Sodium hyaluronate~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf water~1.4–1.8%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf water

Theobroma cacao extract~1.2–1.5%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Theobroma cacao extract

Centella asiatica leaf extract~1–1.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract

Centella asiatica root extract~0.9–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Centella asiatica root extract

Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.75–1.1%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.7–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid~0.7–1.05%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Dipropylene glycol~0.65–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Butylene glycol~0.65–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Panthenol~0.65–1%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Glycerin~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Salicylic acid~0.6–0.9%

Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.6–0.85%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Allantoin~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.55–0.85%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Succinic acid~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Succinic acid

Totarol~0.6–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Totarol

Beta-glucan~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Dextrin~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Madecassoside~0.45–0.7%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Asiaticoside~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Asiatic acid~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Madecassic acid~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Tocopherol~0.4–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Squalane~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ceramide np~0.5–0.75%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Zinc pca~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

Dimethylsilanol hyaluronate~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Dimethylsilanol hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

Potassium hyaluronate~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

Sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol

Sodium acetylated hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid

More about Sodium acetylated hyaluronate

Ingredient list view

Azelaic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Water, Propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Centella asiatica extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf water, Theobroma cacao extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Centella asiatica root extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Hyaluronic acid, Dipropylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic acid, Biosaccharide gum-1, Allantoin, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Succinic acid, Totarol, Beta-glucan, Dextrin, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, Tocopherol, Squalane, Ceramide np, Zinc pca, Dimethylsilanol hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Potassium hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	AnuaAzelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming SerumYOUR PRODUCT	The Purest SolutionsIntensive Hydration Serum Hyaluronic Acid %2 + B5	skinmadeAzelaic Acid + Salicylic Acid serum	Cos De BAHAAZ15 Serum
Match	—	74%	72%	70%
Price	—	—	—	$11.70
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 25	7 of 25	9 of 25
Key difference	—	Erythritol	Niacinamide	Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Irritancy	Medium	Low	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	Contains drying alcohol	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Anua - Azelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum" is effective for: Evens skin tone, Moisturizing, Exfoliation and Anti-blemish

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

Ceramides (ceramide np 0.50% - 0.75%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
Salicylic acid (0.60% - 0.90%). This is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid. Because of this property, it can work inside pores and help reduce the congestion. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and is used to treat acne. Because it is a quite strong exfoliator, be careful with using this product too often: it could result in over-exfoliation.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.45% - 0.65%, asiatic acid 0.45% - 0.65%, asiaticoside 0.45% - 0.65% and madecassoside 0.45% - 0.70% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
An effective concentration of Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.65% - 1.00%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
Humectants (sodium acetylated hyaluronate 0.20% - 0.35%, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer 0.25% - 0.50%, zinc pca 0.35% - 0.65%, biosaccharide gum-1 0.60% - 0.85%, glycerin 0.65% - 1.00%, panthenol 0.65% - 1.00%, hyaluronic acid 0.70% - 1.05%, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid 0.70% - 1.00% and sodium hyaluronate 1.60% - 2.00%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 50 studies and safety reviews.

1
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
4
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
6
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
8
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
10
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
12
Melia azedarachmdedge.com
13
Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overviewjapsonline.com
14
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
16
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
20
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
21
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
24
A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
25
Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
27
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
28
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
32
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
33
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
34
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
35
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
36
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
37
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
38
Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stressonlinelibrary.wiley.com
40
Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammationmdpi.com
41
Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulationstandfonline.com
42
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
43
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
44
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
45
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
46
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
47
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
48
Zinc L-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesisonlinelibrary.wiley.com
49
Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review hindawi.com
50
Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid: Enhanced Bioavailability and Biological Studieshindawi.com

AnuaAzelaic Acid 15+ Intense Calming Serum

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.