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Amala Youth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream
Amala

Amala Youth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
20 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Youth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: aminobutyric acid, lactobacillus ferment.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.5–0.75%
Lactobacillus fermentKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.55%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~4.6–5.6%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.5–3%
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer~1.7–2%
LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.3–0.55%
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Aminobutyric acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.55–0.85%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%
Salvia hispanica seed extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.5–0.8%
Salvia hispanica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighChia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier~0.55–0.85%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.1–3.8%
Macadamia integrifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.9–5.9%
Spirulina platensis extractKey activeEffect: MediumAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect~0.45–0.65%
LysolecithinEffect: LowLecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~2.1–2.5%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Content Approved The Amala Youth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream helps to firm skin, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and restore natural moisture with the whole plant ingredients.”
Source: Content

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - aminobutyric acid - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient pinus pinaster bark extract might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Aminobutyric acidEffect: LowHas been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing~0.55–0.85%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Contains b reakthrough natural biotechnology to deliver intense hydration and improve uneven skin tones.”
Source: Content

This product contains ingredients (pinus pinaster bark extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Pinus pinaster bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)~0.4–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (pinus pinaster bark extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Pinus pinaster bark extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)~0.4–0.65%
Lactobacillus fermentEffect: LowA fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative~0.3–0.55%
Spirulina platensis extractEffect: LowAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect~0.45–0.65%
Theobroma cacao seed butterEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~2.5–3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
10 strong irritants: Parfum, Citrus limon peel oil + 8 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil—High~0.3–0.55%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~2.1–2.5%est.
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layerMedium~1.7–2%est.
Isoamyl cocoateHelps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agentMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Salvia hispanica seed extractA plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Pinus pinaster bark extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)Medium~0.4–0.65%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~2.5–3%est.
Spirulina platensis extractAn algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect3/5~0.45–0.65%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.1–3.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Macadamia integrifolia seed oil~4.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Macadamia integrifolia seed oil
Squalane~4.6–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cetearyl alcohol~3.1–3.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Theobroma cacao seed butter~2.5–3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Pentylene glycol~2.1–2.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter~1.7–2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might as well help to attract moisture to its upper layer

More about Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter
Isoamyl cocoate~1.5–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent

More about Isoamyl cocoate
Lactobacillus/cocoa fruit ferment filtrate~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Lactobacillus/cocoa fruit ferment filtrate
Cetearyl olivate~1–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~0.75–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Silica~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Aminobutyric acid~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatory

Has been shown to support wound healing and skin barrier function when used topically in rats. Is likely to be effective in supporting skin's hydration and barrier function, but research for human skin is missing. Might have some anti-aging properties but the research is missing

More about Aminobutyric acid
Salvia hispanica seed oil~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier

More about Salvia hispanica seed oil
Salvia hispanica seed extract~0.5–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Salvia hispanica seed extract
Inulin~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin
Phyllanthus emblica extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Phyllanthus emblica extract
Paeonia lactiflora extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Paeonia lactiflora extract
Spirulina platensis extract~0.45–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An algae extract. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Spirulina platensis extract
Pinus pinaster bark extract~0.4–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but evidence of effectiveness of topical application is lacking. It can be an INCI name for the trademarked ingredient Pycnogenol (but could also be a different type of this plant's bark extract)

More about Pinus pinaster bark extract
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
Vigna aconitifolia seed extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vigna aconitifolia seed extract
Lysolecithin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Lecithin derivative. It helps oil and water mix together and can enhance penetration of other ingredients. It helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lysolecithin
Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Colloidal gold~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Colloidal gold
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Lactobacillus ferment~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationReduces irritation

A fermentation product created by bacteria Lactobacillus. The fermented product has anti-bacterial properties and might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but studies are lacking. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can be used as a preservative

More about Lactobacillus ferment
Lactobacillus~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Parfum~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Citrus limon peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Styrax benzoin resin extract~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Styrax benzoin resin extract
Vanilla planifolia fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit extract
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Dipteryx odorata seed extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Dipteryx odorata seed extract
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Jasminum grandiflorum
Not recognized
Jasminum sambac flower extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jasminum sambac flower extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Lecithin~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Maltodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Sclerotium gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Pullulan~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Limonene~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Macadamia integrifolia seed oil, Squalane, Cetearyl alcohol, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Pentylene glycol, Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, Isoamyl cocoate, Lactobacillus/cocoa fruit ferment filtrate, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Silica, Aminobutyric acid, Salvia hispanica seed oil, Salvia hispanica seed extract, Inulin, Phyllanthus emblica extract, Paeonia lactiflora extract, Spirulina platensis extract, Pinus pinaster bark extract, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, Lysolecithin, Sodium hyaluronate, Colloidal gold, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lactobacillus ferment, Lactobacillus, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Parfum, Citrus limon peel oil, Styrax benzoin resin extract, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Cananga odorata flower oil, Dipteryx odorata seed extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Unknown, Jasminum sambac flower extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Sclerotium gum, Pullulan, Xanthan gum, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Benzyl benzoate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  2. 2
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Advanced Skin Care – A Novel Ingredientncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    gamma-Aminobutyric acid (A) receptor agonists accelerate cutaneous barrier recovery and prevent epidermal hyperplasia induced by barrier disruptionpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Wound healing activity of gamma-aminobutyric Acid (GABA) in ratspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Moisturizing effect of Gamma-aminobutyric acid for cosmetic applicationam-2017.weebly.com
Amala Youth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream
AmalaYouth-Renewing Powerhouse Face Cream
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.