PRODUCT REVIEW
Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retiniod Brightening Sleeping Facial
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Helping to hydrate stressed and problematic skin, the active ingredients are encapsulated inside a supercharged gel that includes powerhouse ingredients like hyaluronic acid, allantoin, bisabolol, niacinamide, panthenol, yoghurt, and manuka honey UMF 16+.The active ingredients are slowly released overnight, giving your skin the ultimate in exfoliation and hydration in one.
sodium lactate
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
galactoarabinan
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
ascophyllum nodosum extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Brown seaweed extract. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant effect
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
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Anti-aging
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Evens skin tone
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
niacinamide
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
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Exfoliation
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
salicylic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
salicylic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation,
Antibacterial,
Evens skin tone
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
niacinamide
1.9% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Reduces redness,
Antibacterial
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
allantoin
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Reduces redness,
Reduces irritation,
Exfoliation
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
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Potential irritants
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
salicylic acid
0.45% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation,
Antibacterial,
Evens skin tone
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
glycerin
4.5% -
5.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
glycolic acid
4.1% -
5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Glycolic acid, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Sodium gluconate, Lactic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Salicylic acid, Yogurt powder, Saccharomyces/xylinum/black tea ferment, Honey, Mel, Panthenol, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Allantoin, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed silk, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Honey extract, Globularia alypum leaf extract, Physalis angulata extract, Hydrolyzed opuntia ficus-indica flower extract, Ascophyllum nodosum extract, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Caffeyl glucoside, Gallyl glucoside, Polygonum cuspidatum extract, Diglucosyl gallic acid, Dimethyl sulfone, Zymomonas ferment extract, Mirabilis jalapa flower/leaf/stem extract, Biotin, Rosmarinyl glucoside, Dimethyl isosorbide, Galactoarabinan, Inulin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Sodium lactate, Maltodextrin, Sclerotium gum, Xanthan gum, T-butyl alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium citrate, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Moisturizing efficiency of silk protein hydrolysate: Silk fibroin
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Probiotics and prebiotics potential for the care of skin, female urogenital tract, and respiratory tract