A'kin

A'kin Firming Night Cream

Name: A'kin - Firming Night Cream
Brand: A'kin

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

14 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Firming Night Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: allantoin, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, panthenol

Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.3–0.55%

GlycerinKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.7–2.1%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.25–0.5%

Sodium lactateKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.4–0.6%

AllantoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.6%

ArginineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.35–0.65%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey activeEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.3–5.3%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.1–1.4%

PanthenolHeroEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%

Sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~3.1–3.8%

Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartateKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid. There is not strong evidence of a particular beneficial effect for skin in topical applications, beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Cetearyl alcoholKey activeEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Behenyl alcoholEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.6–0.9%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“A specially formulated targeted anti ageing rich night creme for dry and mature skin to nourish, firm, lift and smooth skin for visibly reduced lines and wrinkles.”

Source: Naturisimo

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.1–1.4%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.3–5.3%

Ascorbyl glucosideUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.9–1.1%

Evens skin tone

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Vitamin C brightens and evens out skin tone .”

Source: Naturisimo

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.1–0.25%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.

AllantoinEffect: LowHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.6%

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.1–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 strong irritants: Parfum, Citronellol + 3 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.1–0.25%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05%est.

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~5.6–6.8%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~0.9–1.1%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Piroctone olamineA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~5.6–6.8%est.

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.3–5.3%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.8%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Isostearyl isostearate~5.6–6.8%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate

Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.3–5.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil

Sorbitan stearate~2.3–2.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Cetearyl nonanoate~2–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cetearyl nonanoate

Glycerin~1.7–2.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Niacinamide~1.1–1.4%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Ascorbyl glucoside~0.9–1.1%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

Sucrose cocoate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sucrose cocoate

Behenyl alcohol~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Panthenol~0.5–0.75%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Sodium gluconate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Sodium lactate~0.4–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Arginine~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Allantoin~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishReduces rednessReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Parfum~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Piroctone olamine~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Piroctone olamine

Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Sodium phytate~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate

Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid. There is not strong evidence of a particular beneficial effect for skin in topical applications, beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate

Citric acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Sorbitan olivate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Salicylic acid~0.1–0.25%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid

Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Citronellol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Geraniol~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Linalool~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Citral~0.05%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Ingredient list view

Water, Isostearyl isostearate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Sorbitan stearate, Cetearyl nonanoate, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Niacinamide, Ascorbyl glucoside, Sucrose cocoate, Behenyl alcohol, Panthenol, Sodium gluconate, Sodium lactate, Arginine, Allantoin, Parfum, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Sodium citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Piroctone olamine, Xanthan gum, Sodium phytate, Methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate, Citric acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Sorbitan olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium sorbate, Salicylic acid, Sodium benzoate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	A'kinFirming Night CreamYOUR PRODUCT	Formula 10.0.6Feel So Soft Oil Free Moisturizer	UpCircle BeautyNight Cream with Blueberry Extract	Paula's choiceInvisible Finish Moisture Gel
Match	—	81%	81%	80%
Price	$37.68	$8.99−$28.69	—	$42.00+$4.32
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 12	5 of 12	4 of 12
Key difference	—	Jojoba Esters	Sunflower Seed Oil	Oatmeal Extract
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

1
Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Healthncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivativesncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
8
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
10
Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acidsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
13
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
15
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
17
A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
18
Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
19
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu

A'kinFirming Night Cream

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