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African Botanics Fleurs D'Afrique Intensive Recovery Face Oil
African Botanics

African Botanics Fleurs D'Afrique Intensive Recovery Face Oil

Efficacy93/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone
Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Works well
What the product description says
“Use this facial oil to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, blemishes, dark spots, redness and dryness.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.3%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.1–0.45%
Anti-blemish
Retinol, Oenothera biennis oil
Works well
What the product description says
“Use this facial oil to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, blemishes, dark spots, redness and dryness.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.3%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~1.1–1.7%
Anti-aging
Retinol, Tocopherol + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Use this facial oil to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, blemishes, dark spots, redness and dryness.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.4–2.1%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.35–0.8%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.1–0.45%
Moisturizing
Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 7 more
Works
What the product description says
“Use this facial oil to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, blemishes, dark spots, redness and dryness.”
Source: Credo Beauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cylindrotheca fusiformis extract, sclerocarya birrea seed oil.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycine soja oil.

Sclerocarya birrea seed oilKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.~4.3–6.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.9–4.4%
Cylindrotheca fusiformis extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps skin moisturization by attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties but research confirming effectiveness in skin is lacking~1.8–2.8%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~1.1–1.7%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.35–0.8%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.2–0.8%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~4.4–6.5%
TocopherolEffect: LowPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.4–2.1%
Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract· HumectantEffect: LowA fragrant plant extract with some antibacterial properties. Can be irritating~0.9–1.35%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tocopherol, Ubiquinone + 5 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol, tocopherol, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

TocopherolKey activeEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~1.4–2.1%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.35–0.8%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.3%
Sclerocarya birrea seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.~4.3–6.5%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~1.1–1.7%
Calendula officinalis flower oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant~0.2–0.7%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.1–0.45%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Retinol
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa moschata seed oil + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~4.4–6.5%est.
Rosa moschata seed oil—High~3.8–5.7%est.
Myrothamnus flabellifolia extractA fragrant plant extract with some antibacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.9–1.35%est.
Calendula officinalis flower oilA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritantHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.1–0.35%est.
Sclerocarya birrea seed oilAn emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.Medium~4.3–6.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.9–4.4%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~1.1–1.7%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.2–0.8%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.2–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Citrullus lanatus seed oil~22–33%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Citrullus lanatus seed oil
Sclerocarya birrea seed oil~4.3–6.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps to soften the skin. It has a high contetn of oleic acid that might weaken the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be somewhat helpful against hyperpigmentation.

More about Sclerocarya birrea seed oil
Jasmine grandiflorum (jasmine) flower oil
Not recognized
Adansonia digitata
Not recognized
Rosa damascena flower oil~4.4–6.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Rosa moschata seed oil~3.8–5.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosa moschata seed oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.9–4.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract~1.8–2.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps skin moisturization by attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties but research confirming effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract
Tocopherol~1.4–2.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Helichrysum angustifolium flower oil~1.2–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Helichrysum angustifolium flower oil
Oenothera biennis oil~1.1–1.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialMoisturizing

A fragrant plant extract with some antibacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract
Aspalathus linearis extract~0.55–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aspalathus linearis extract
Bulbinella nutens (bulbinella) extract
Not recognized
Schinziophyton rautanenii kernel oil~0.55–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Schinziophyton rautanenii kernel oil
Cyclopia (honeybush) extract
Not recognized
Ubiquinone~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Calendula officinalis flower oil~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant

More about Calendula officinalis flower oil
Glycine soja oil~0.2–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.1–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Retinol~0.1–0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract
Ingredient list view

Citrullus lanatus seed oil, Sclerocarya birrea seed oil, Unknown, Unknown, Rosa damascena flower oil, Rosa moschata seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract, Tocopherol, Helichrysum angustifolium flower oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Myrothamnus flabellifolia extract, Aspalathus linearis extract, Unknown, Schinziophyton rautanenii kernel oil, Unknown, Ubiquinone, Calendula officinalis flower oil, Glycine soja oil, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Retinol, Rosmarinus officinalis extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
African BotanicsFleurs D'Afrique Intensive Recovery Face OilYOUR PRODUCTJordan SamuelRetinol Treatment OilSEPHORA COLLECTIONLift & Firm - Recovery Firming Night Oil with RetinolCOSRXThe Retinol 0.5 Oil
Match—87%87%85%
Price—$51.23$24.00$18.90
Shared key ingredients—3 of 74 of 74 of 7
Key difference—Agran OilSunflower Seed OilSqualane
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Anti-aging potential of extracts from Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst and its chemical profiling by UPLC-Q-TOF-MSncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Physico-chemical composition and characterisation of the seed and seed oil of Sclerocarya birreapubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Assessment of the potential irritancy of oleic acid on human skin: Evaluation in vitro and in vivosciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts ec.europa.eu
  5. 5
    Fucoxanthin: A Promising Medicinal and Nutritional Ingredient. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2015, 1–10.hindawi.com
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
African Botanics Fleurs D'Afrique Intensive Recovery Face Oil
African BotanicsFleurs D'Afrique Intensive Recovery Face Oil
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