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Aesop Control Blemish Serum
Aesop

Aesop Control Blemish Serum

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Panthenol + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Effective without stripping or dehydrating the skin.”
Source: Feelunique

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": panthenol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, panthenol

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–1.15%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.35–0.8%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Niacinamide, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“Control Blemish Serum”
From product name

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.3–2%
Salicylic acidUnder-dosedUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.3–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Salicylic acid + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.3–0.7%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.7–4%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.3–2%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
11 strong irritants: Hamamelis virginiana water, Citrus limon peel oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hamamelis virginiana waterA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~2–3%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.6–1.35%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.3–0.7%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Benzalkonium chlorideHelps water and oil mix together and works as a cleansing agent (detergent). Also used as a preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.45%est.
Salvia officinalis oil—High~0.1–0.45%est.
Leptospermum petersonii oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Peg-150 distearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~3.2–4.9%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~1.3–2%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.4–1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Multi-Active Complex 12 Modern Actives Face Serum
The Constant Multi-Active Complex 12 Modern Actives Face Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10088% match
$10.43
Ultra B2 Hydrating Serum
Ultraceuticals Ultra B2 Hydrating Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10087% match
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Polysorbate 80~4.8–7.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Peg-150 distearate~3.2–4.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-150 distearate
Niacinamide~2.7–4%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Hamamelis virginiana water~2–3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana water
Polysorbate 20~1.6–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~1.3–2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl alcohol~0.5–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Citrus limon peel oil~0.6–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Panthenol~0.5–1.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Disodium edta~0.4–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Bisabolol~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder
Ormenis multicaulis oil~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ormenis multicaulis oil
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.35–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Salicylic acid~0.3–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Benzalkonium chloride~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together and works as a cleansing agent (detergent). Also used as a preservative. Can be irritating

More about Benzalkonium chloride
Lactic acid~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Salvia officinalis oil~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Salvia officinalis oil
Leptospermum petersonii oil~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Leptospermum petersonii oil
Benzoic acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Limonene~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Citral~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Linalool~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Ingredient list view

Water, Polysorbate 80, Peg-150 distearate, Niacinamide, Hamamelis virginiana water, Polysorbate 20, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Citrus limon peel oil, Panthenol, Disodium edta, Bisabolol, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, Ormenis multicaulis oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic acid, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Benzalkonium chloride, Lactic acid, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Salvia officinalis oil, Leptospermum petersonii oil, Benzoic acid, Zingiber officinale root extract, Limonene, Citral, Linalool, Geraniol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AesopControl Blemish SerumYOUR PRODUCTThe ConstantMulti-Active Complex 12 Modern Actives Face SerumUltraceuticalsUltra B2 Hydrating SerumDr. Jart+Dermask Solution 1pc
Match—88%87%86%
Price—$10.43—$6.90
Shared key ingredients—3 of 52 of 55 of 5
Key difference—Lactic AcidSodium HyaluronateAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Low High
Drying alcohol——— Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
  5. 5
    Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
  6. 6
    Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
Aesop Control Blemish Serum
AesopControl Blemish Serum
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