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Aesop Camelia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream
Aesop

Aesop Camelia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients In 2 routines
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Glycine soja oil, Theobroma cacao seed butter + 10 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Camelia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, glycine soja oil.

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.35–0.8%
Theobroma cacao seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.6%
Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~1.4–2.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%
Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~0.15–0.55%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~1.3–1.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.1–3.2%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~3.2–4.9%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~2–3%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.5–1.1%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1–1.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Citrus grandis seed extract, Lavandula angustifolia oil + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus grandis seed extract—High~0.1–0.4%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.01–0.1%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~2–3%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1–1.6%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.8–1.25%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.35–0.8%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
6 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
6 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~1.4–2.1%est.
Theobroma cacao seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect3/5~0.15–0.6%est.
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~0.15–0.55%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.1–3.2%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.8–1.25%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.35–0.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Stearic acid~3.2–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Cetearyl alcohol~2.1–3.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~2–3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Camellia japonica seed oil~1.7–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil
Cocos nucifera oil~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~1.3–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~1–1.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Ceteareth-20~0.8–1.25%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl stearate~0.5–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Glycine soja oil~0.35–0.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Tocopherol~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Fusanus spicatus wood oil~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Fusanus spicatus wood oil
Theobroma cacao seed butter~0.15–0.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-dandruff

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Theobroma cacao seed butter
Triticum vulgare germ oil~0.15–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citrus grandis seed extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus grandis seed extract
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Ormenis multicaulis oil~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ormenis multicaulis oil
Disodium edta~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium citrate~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract
Beta-carotene~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene
Farnesol~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Linalool~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Stearic acid, Cetearyl alcohol, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Camellia japonica seed oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl stearate, Glycine soja oil, Tocopherol, Fusanus spicatus wood oil, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus grandis seed extract, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Ormenis multicaulis oil, Disodium edta, Sodium citrate, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Beta-carotene, Farnesol, Linalool, Limonene

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  3. 3
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  5. 5
    Cocoa polyphenols and their influence on parameters involved in ex vivo skin restructuringncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Assessment report on Rosmarinus officinalis L., aetheroleum and Rosmarinus officinalis L., folium ema.europa.eu
Aesop Camelia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream
AesopCamelia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream
Buy at SpaceNK US$53.00Amazon

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Buy at SpaceNK US$53.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.