ZO Skin Health Instant Pore Refiner

ZO Skin Health Instant Pore Refiner

Efficacy0/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Exfoliation
Retinyl palmitate
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Works to exfoliate dead skin cells around pores, helping to prevent congestion, which can lead to breakouts”
Source: Zo Skin Health

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Retinyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Side benefit · Salicyloyl phytosphingosine, Coconut alkanes + 22 more
Works well

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, plukenetia volubilis seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: salicyloyl phytosphingosine

Salicyloyl phytosphingosineHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have anti-aging benefits but solid study data is lacking~0.25–0.5%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~6.3–7.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2.6–3.2%
Carthamus tinctorius seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation~1.2–1.5%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.1–1.3%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.75–1.15%
Aleurites moluccanus seed oilKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.85%
Plukenetia volubilis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid~0.6–0.85%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.5–0.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.65%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.3–0.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.25–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.4–2.9%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~1.8–2.2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Caesalpinia spinosa gum· EmollientEffect: Low~0.3–0.6%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Myristyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.2–0.4%
Glyceryl undecylenate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation~0.15–0.3%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~6.3–7.7%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.75–1.15%est.
Rosa canina fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lackingMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Glycol distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Oleth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Glycol stearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caesalpinia spinosa gum—Medium~0.3–0.6%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~6.3–7.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Coconut alkanes~6.3–7.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Methylheptyl isostearate~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Cetyl alcohol~2.6–3.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~2.1–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Isohexadecane~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Carthamus tinctorius seed oil~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oil
Squalane~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.75–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Aleurites moluccanus seed oil~0.6–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Aleurites moluccanus seed oil
Plukenetia volubilis seed oil~0.6–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that works as a good moisturizer by softening the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin and reducing blemishes due to the large content of linoleic acid

More about Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosa canina fruit extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking

More about Rosa canina fruit extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Marrubium vulgare meristem cell culture~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Polymethyl methacrylate~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate
Glycerin~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glycol distearate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glycol distearate
Polyacrylamide~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Oleth-20~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Oleth-20
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Salicyloyl phytosphingosine~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have anti-aging benefits but solid study data is lacking

More about Salicyloyl phytosphingosine
Glycol stearate~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Glycol stearate
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Propanediol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Caesalpinia spinosa gum~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Caesalpinia spinosa gum
Laureth-7~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ethyl ferulate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ethyl ferulate
Myristyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating

More about Myristyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Aminomethyl propanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol
Phospholipids~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Isostearic acid~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Isostearic acid
Retinyl palmitate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Ethylene glycol
Not recognized
Fatty acid c14-18
Not recognized
Lauryl alcohol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Lauryl alcohol
Lecithin~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Glyceryl caprylate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Glyceryl undecylenate
Parfum~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Coconut alkanes, Methylheptyl isostearate, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Isohexadecane, Butylene glycol, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Squalane, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Aleurites moluccanus seed oil, Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosa canina fruit extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, Marrubium vulgare meristem cell culture, Polymethyl methacrylate, Glycerin, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glycol distearate, Polyacrylamide, Oleth-20, C13-14 isoparaffin, Caprylyl glycol, Salicyloyl phytosphingosine, Glycol stearate, Xanthan gum, Tocopheryl acetate, Propanediol, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, Laureth-7, Disodium edta, Ethyl ferulate, Myristyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Aminomethyl propanol, Phospholipids, Sodium hyaluronate, Isostearic acid, Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbic acid, Unknown, Unknown, Lauryl alcohol, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl undecylenate, Parfum

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Zo Skin Health29 g
$68.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ZO Skin HealthInstant Pore RefinerYOUR PRODUCTBIOTHERMLIFE PLANKTON ELIXIR ANTI-AGING SERUMLancômeGÉNIFIQUE ULTIMATE SERUML'Oréal ParisYouth Code Skin Activating Ferment Pre-Essence
Match—53%52%48%
Price$68.00—$81.85+$13.85—
Shared key ingredients—3 of 123 of 123 of 12
Key difference—Ascorbyl GlucosideAdenosineAdenosine
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol — Contains drying alcohol
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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ZO Skin Health Instant Pore Refiner
ZO Skin HealthInstant Pore Refiner

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